As the wave of pared-back designs sweeps through the Fall/Winter 2023 shows this season, one would expect Jil Sander, the house known for delectable minimalism, to fall right in line. Yet in a push against the grain, Creative Directors Lucie and Luke Meier have presented a collection with an electric undercurrent, exploring the tension between technology and nature. The collection, presented in the Certosa District, was a practice in impulse and personalization, with the Meiers exploring ways for the wearer to infuse themselves into their clothing.

The opening looks of the collection may have just been the biggest departure for the brand, as a collection of leather moto-jackets and tops came down the runway. These leather pieces all contained a logo embossed either down the placket or across the chest; and while yes, this might seem like a small detail, the addition of a stark logo from a brand that is so traditionally rooted in minimalism feels like it could be the start of a broadening of horizons for the label.

A good amount of the models’ heads were constricted in tightly wound balaclavas, as a stark contrast to the silhouettes of the collection which remained oversized and airy. Trousers have been built with a zipper running down the front of each leg, giving the wearer the option of how tight/loose they would like to wear them — this same design tick has been tapped in the creation of long overcoats. Dresses are tubular and loose in their shape, almost streamlined in the no-nonsense shape they take on the body. Tailored jackets have largely been finished with zipper closures as an extension of the idea of streamlining clothing as it is put onto the body. What may have been the most exciting experimentation in silhouette was seen in the presentation of two leather jackets with rounded shoulders and cinched waists, giving a sculptural feel to the buttery leather. 

The most consistent imagery throughout the collection is the use of the cherry and candy motifs, which have been printed onto garments in a myriad of technical feats.  The motifs have either been intarsia-knit into wool or digitally printed onto welded felt and classic denim. Other exploratory material developments include a range of silver knit fringe garments or the closing looks that have taken floral patterns and elaborated on them with three-dimensional embellishments.

For Fall 2023, the Meiers have presented a collection that is in high spirits, from their exploration of new materials and experimentation in all of the forms that the Jil Sander wearer can become. This joyful presentation for Jil Sander is an uplifting one, especially amidst a season where the general zeitgeist seems to point toward more protective and practical design. While, yes, there is always a need for clothing to reflect the world we live in, there is also the need for clothing that inspires us to move forward, to find joy in our uncertain times — and what a delight to find said joy at Jil Sander.