Lucie and Luke Meier continue to design clothes for women’s archetypal selves. Not quite in the eye of what is, but rather in the eye of what is to come, and what is desired from the future. Unlike so much of what we’ve seen this season, the latest collection for Jil Sander cries no tears of nostalgia, as the looks are reflective of the society to come.
In the essence of Dior’s New Look from the late 40’s, staples of this collection feature long billowing skirts with skin-hugging tops that rest at the lower hips. Knitwear is sophisticated, suits are shaped into flattering silhouettes rather than structural forms, as all garments aim for a polished look.
In the essence of Jil Sander, there is the tiniest touch of flare added to pieces that is yes, unmissable, but highly complimentary. Two circular cutouts lined in metallic silver or gold are found resting in line with the upper clavicle on dresses and suit vests. Detailed outlines of a cat and dog can be found on the front of dresses and tops in bright blue or pink. Sometimes it’s an added belt, other times a fringe skirt or neckline, or silver detailing on the collar.
When tones aren’t neutral shades or black, they are rattlesnake, neon yellow, or baby pink. Rather than attempt to compromise between both ends of the spectrum, they instead seamlessly created a collection with no compromise at all but rather details that elevate each other.