The pandemic and its effects have definitely produced feelings of despair and anguish in many of us. But London-based designer Joshua James Small wants to look at these emotions in a more optimistic light – using them to channel strength and resilience. That is just one of the many inspirations he applied to his 2021 collection, “Thru These Tears,” which debuted this Friday at London Fashion Week.

The collection presents a combination of vulnerability and fearlessness, with designs that oscillate between a highlight of skin exposure and voluminous pieces that reclaim the wearer’s personal space, in a way.

Small’s laborious technique can be seen on the sleek black dress with an open back, which is embellished with hand-sewn crystals sprinkled throughout the front and a very discreet flower pattern embroidery. 

The sheer white blouse comes with applied pearls at the collar that also form a frame around a positive message. Other creations come with lace applications, giving it a more delicate aura. 

Another highlight is Small’s first-time collaboration with knitwear designer and sister Sophie Alice Small: a fringed body-con midi that organically accentuates the female silhouette, with an intentional receding detail at the front.

The color palette for this collection focuses on darker, earthy tones, an inspiration that came from Small’s appreciation of abstract painter Mark Rothko, especially “Black in Deep Red” and “Red on Maroon.” Music was also important during the creation of the collection, with tracks like Burial’s “Archangel” and a remix of Caroline Polachek’s “Ocean of Tears” helping set the mood. 

Sustainability is at the core of Small’s work. The designer adopts certain steps to make his collections as environmentally-friendly as possible, such as listing each component of his creations on his website upon release, favoring dead-stock and reclaimed fabrics on his garments, and producing his “seasonless” collections on a made-to-order basis.

The full collection lookbook will be available on joshuajamessmall.com.