Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2020

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2020 collection was a love letter to Debbie Harry.

Sexy was the official theme for the show and Blondie’s Debbie Harry was the inspiration. The punk pin-up and pop-icon was Watanabe’s Teen Idol, and this collection was a tribute to her. “She was the one, when he was a young man,” a P.R. rep commented.

The show took place at the Hotel Potocki on Saturday, and we saw an army of doppelgangers parade down the runway. The models wore bed-head blonde wigs and slightly smudged red lips. The soundtrack was Blondie’s, “Heart of Glass” and “Call Me”.

For each look, Watanabe gave us his version of sexy, subversive femininity that didn’t rely on an overexposure of flesh. There were leather bustiers that sat on top of double-breasted coats. Bondage straps and harnesses that added sex appeal. Slip dresses trimmed in lace were layered over pantyhose, some in bright colors of blue, orange and pink. Watanabe also gave us exaggerated hips, sometimes constructed in a dress or skirt and, others with quilted bags or hip-slung fanny packs that created drama.
We also saw tulle skirts worn under leather and the classic modern-day punk staple, leopard print shown in footwear, pantyhose and a button-down shirt. A standout moment came from a zebra print shirt dress (very Debbie Harry), worn with pink pantyhose and a black leather bustier. There was also a moment of snakeskin in the form of an A-line skirt.

A big focus was on outerwear with a super strong mix of jackets, coats, and blazers. One was created from two contrasting fabrics. One side was cut from crimson leather, while the other side was cut from heavy-weight orange cotton. The jacket was fastened at the waist with two matching red utility belts.

The show closed with more looks of leather straps and models wore winklepicker booties in black, leopard print and/or with silver studs.

Take a look at the best looks from the runway show below.

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