Making his Milan debut, Johnathan Anderson tests our perceptions of objectivity in his Resort 2023 and Mens SS23 collection. Using Rembrandt’s portraits as the “original selfie”, the British designer reminds us of the fleeting nature of modernity. 

Anderson has always toyed with the deconstruction of unexpected materials to create playful ensembles. Pulling inspiration from his acting days when he performed in The Pitchfork Disney,  Anderson wanted to shock the audience and make us ponder our perception of everyday objects. 

This collection was no different with models wearing BMX handlebars, broken skateboards, CDs door hinges, we ask ourselves: what happens when clothing meets nonwearable objects? Fashion fragments arise from the clash, and the objectivity of these items becomes subjective. 

Set in an open warehouse, the audience is first greeted by the sound of morning birds before transitioning into modern renditions of classical music. Tshirts and jumpsuits are torn with barcodes peeking out; work gloves are laid over tops, and CDs are stuck onto sweatshirts, all signaling to the defiant narrative that objectivity is subjective. 

When clothing meets objects, shapes are essential to the point of banality: the t-shirt, the sweatshirt, the Bermudas, the dress, the jean jacket the five pocket trousers, the bomber, the tailored double-breasted blazer, the tank top, the parka. All complemented by bright colorful bags and thick-soled shoes.

Using Rembrandt’s reproductions throughout the collection, Anderson reframes the nearly 400-year-old self-portraits as selfies. The same reason Rembrandt portrayed himself in his etchings, is not too far from why we take selfies today. As technology has progressed, the ways in which we use it have remained more consistent than we think. Anderson notes that this is “a collection that asks to be looked at in perspective: from the peak of the selfie stick.”

Watch the full show and view the collection, below.