In a delightfully symbolic move, the SS24 Men’s and Women’s collection was showcased on the Passerelle Debilly, a pedestrian bridge crossing the Parisian River Seine from the Eiffel Tower to Palais de Tokyo. This carefully chosen location captures the heart of Kenzo Artistic Director Nigo’s latest collection: a union of Eastern and Western design. Influenced by the soundtrack of designer Kenzo Takada’s youth, Nigo merges the brand’s history with his modern vision in an homage to the groovy aesthetics of 1980s City Pop.

Following Gen Z’s recent discovery of the genre, a seamless mix of funk, boogie, and pop music, Nigo’s City Pop-inspired collection parallels this revival by emphasizing contemporary styles without losing touch with Kenzo’s iconic legacy. Far from being limited to the garish styles that have become emblematic of American 80’s fashion, Nigo’s latest series of womenswear is stunningly elegant, featuring light ankle-length dresses, workwear-inspired jacket-and-skirt sets, and gracefully layered silhouettes made from delicate materials like broderie anglaise and tulle.

East flawlessly meets West in blazers with semi-detached Kimono sleeves, and Japanese indigo denim washes and cloths drawn from 80’s and 90’s Kenzo Jeans styles breathe new life into men’s formalwear. The essence of American vintage merges with traditional Japanese fashion in a kimono-cut-down puffer jacket and varsity jackets, as well as Judo-style sashiko jackets.

Throughout the collection are patterns and graphics alluding to Kenzo Takada’s legacy such as hand-drawn florals by Takada himself, as well as patterns in menswear inspired by his early sketches like the Sketch Argyle, Shading, Herringbone Jacquard, and Check Jacquard. City Pop influences shine through in a Pop Art Fruit Stickers print, and Japanese and American heritage is shown in the denim and quilt Seigaiha and 1950s inspired Drawn Varsity prints.

The Kenzo logo designed by Japanese graphic artist Verdy is seen in a swashed font printed all over apparel, as well as on utility bags inspired by American workwear and timeless backpacks. Japanese style is emphasized in shoulder bags structured like rice packaging, and small backpacks and tote bags traditionally designed for carrying sake. As for shoes, the Paris show flaunted a variety including the new Kenzo Paris x Tokyo sneaker made from suede and leather, floral clogs, an elegantly draped kitten heel, and the Dome skate sneaker and Pace leather runner in all-new colorways.

A stunning new assortment of accessories graced the runway with both Japanese and Western-inspired pieces like traditional Kendo and Judo belts contrasted with metal and tiger head belt buckles. The Kenzo by Verdy logo is featured again in necklace pendants and baseball caps, while elements of 80’s street photography are shown in topless straw hats, bucket hats, and guard caps. If these styles aren’t your bag, try the military capeline hats or oversized berets! Further highlighting the bright, youthful essence of City Pop, the collection also features Nigo’s signature medals designed to look like fruit stickers showing Kenzo iconography.