Catherine Holstein just showcased a collection that was less about reinvention and more about refinement. Staged at the Park Avenue Armory on a circular runway designed by Griffin Frazen, the show played out like a carefully controlled film sequence—models moving in measured steps, emerging and disappearing in shifting pools of dim light.

The references were there for those looking: the meticulous costuming of Merchant Ivory, the unsettling beauty of David Lynch. But beyond those cinematic influences, this was Holstein carrying forward the essence of a brand deeply rooted in New York. One that upholds the core of the city’s style. KHAITE isn’t just inspired by New York, it is an extension of its attitude. A continuation of the effortless strength and modernity that have long defined the city’s fashion identity.

The outerwear, one of KHAITE’s undeniable strengths, was as sharp and considered as ever. Sculptural coats with exaggerated lapels and cropped leather boleros were cut with precision, while shearing-lined collars and textural knits softened the severity. These weren’t statements for the sake of making one, they were clothes that carried weight without needing excess. The same could be said of the corseted structured knits. If anything, the collection was a demonstration of control.

The mix of materials in this collection—glossy, structured leathers, rugged denim, and thick, hand knit textures—created contrast, but it didn’t feel like it was done just for the sake of being visually striking. The art of fabric is a skill often overlooked, yet here, it was a notable strength. The patent-like leather gave structure and sleek toughness, while the raw denim added a grounded, utilitarian feel. The heavy-gauge knits introduced a softer, more tactile dimension. These different textures played off each other effortlessly, never feeling out of place.

The styling, under Vanessa Traina, reinforced this approach. It wasn’t about explicit opposition, but about maintaining cohesion while still allowing each material to retain its own character.

The soundtrack, Massive Attack, Marilyn Manson, Smashing Pumpkins, Aphex Twin, and Sonic Boom, was a curated choice, adding an undercurrent of unease that kept the collection from feeling too polished. It was a reflection of the beating energy of New York itself. Raw, restless, and constantly shifting.

Overall, the collection reinforced that KHAITE exists in its own space, following its own rhythm. Rather than relying on reinvention, it answers to its own logic. It was a reminder that true influence is about building a world so compelling that others want to step into it.