Burning through the darkness, an insignia of feminine force flares and flickers. As attendees border a spherical runway, a model in shining armor emerges. Liquid metal curves and ripples against her skin. She emanates a strength not often seen but only heard of—however before we reach this arc of Blumarine’s story, we must trace back to last season.

As its Spring/Summer 2023 collection debuted, Blumarine sent denim-clad siren-like models slithering down the runway. Emerging in flared jeans and mermaid-fit gowns, the house showcased a collection that was pulsing with energy, a tad nostalgic, and scintillating with undertones of sexuality.

Unlike your average mermaid, Nicola Brognano’s vision took form in a murkier, gothic rendition. Jewel-encrusted crosses took center stage. The adorned gothic emblems could be observed virtually anywhere, either blown up and expanding over the chests of models or shrunken and entangled in their braided locks.

Like the skins of models sparkling with body glitter, the collection echoed an ineffable radiance. Enchanting in their sinuous movements yet intimidating with their icy attitudes, Brognano’s sirens evoked the inner fantasy that spoke to those growing up in the dawn of the new millennium.

Smoldering with intensity, we return to the Blumarine woman as the Italian fashion brand presents its Fall 2023 collection. Tinged with history, yes, but also progressive. A sharp interplay of historical references—some more modern than others—melds Joan of Arc, the Middle Ages, and a flicker, or two, of Y2K fashion.

A token of Blumarine’s affair with the early aughts, micro skirts emerged on the runway. Ever so cropped and lined with shearling detail, these are not your average micro skirts. All locked up with thick buckled straps, the cult favorite gets revamped with a medieval twist. Paired with matching, knee-high boots, the look translated to one intersecting femininity with rigid, masculine strength—all very characteristic of the Joan of Arc framework this season.

Though a piece that snatched the gaze of attendees, the micro skirt was not the only object of desire adopted from the early aughts. Summoning last season’s muse of the goth, Blumarine’s latest collection featured accessories spanning from fashion’s dark recesses as bulky black chokers and asymmetrical belts—both generously studded—made appearances.

Shearling surfaced in the realm of outerwear this season. As cropped and floor-length coats graced the runway, a certain air of majesty proliferated on the runway. In a tactful execution of color blocking, shoulders, wrists, and buckles were highlighted in hazelnut-hued leather on a base of sumptuous walnut brown.

Gowns manifested in metallic jersey sculpting away at the female form. Encasing bodies from high necks to pointed boots, Blumarine’s dresses indicate the modern woman can be her own knight in shining armor. Slinky, ruched gowns in a pale shade of blue, charcoal, canary yellow, and crimson cinched waistlines and adorned chests in plunging necklines and cross-tied halter variations. Incredibly flattering in movement, the gowns introduced a quality of softness to a collection centered on courage and vigor.

Fashion, since its dawn, has been assigned the task of reinventing the historical and making it relevant to today’s world. Nicola Brognano executes that and then some. While this common goal may link him to his peers, his unconventional approach to his work sets him apart. As opposed to scouring the house’s archives, Brognano instead opts for a more reflective approach. Studying his own feats at the house, he seeks to progress the brand’s narrative without fixating so much on its past.

The house’s latest collection chimes with assertion and empowerment as it progresses the story of the Blumarine woman. Her courage multiplies as her wardrobe becomes imbued with strength to help her confront the complexities of the female experience.

From the depths of the seven seas to the Middle Ages, Blumarine adds a dash of fantasy to each fashion week as it presents its latest endeavors. The codification of Blumarine requires a specific lexicon, making Nicola Brognano more of an ideal successor than anyone could have possibly imagined. Reviving the iconic brand from its former sleepy haze, Brognano continues to assert it as one of the most anticipated shows of Milan Fashion Week.