For his latest show, Alessandro Michele presented a spectacular collection with an extraordinary runway. Flashes of bright light disrupted the blackness of the space as roars of a lion traveled through the crowd (a prelude for the drama that followed). The show was dramatic and theatrical, a mirrored runway was set against a backdrop of dancing lights, pulsating as models took to the runway, a medieval choir played interspersed sporadically with the noise of barking dogs and the roars of lions. 

The show was a kaleidoscope of design, suits worn with faux furs, houndstooth prints, feminine pantsuits, tailoring, purple animal print, velvet, lace, metal spikes, flower motifs, formal wear and sportswear, a mix of Michele’s eccentric taste. For his take on tailoring Michele referenced the 1940’s, sharp shoulders, nipped waist, shown in contrast to pant legs cinched with cords, a detail that felt very post-apocalyptic Mad Max. Many of the pieces were unfinished, raw edges, exposed seams and stitches. The sportswear looks had that 70’s vintage vibe that Michele channels so effortless into a cool modern day aesthetic.  Looks of all white offered a chance to pause and appreciate the jolting color pallet from previous pieces.

There was a big focus on accessories, religious iconography, jeweled crucifixes shown as belts and necklaces punctuated looks. Sneakers and platforms featured strongly. Handbags inspired by the archive were shown in variations of what’s become Michele’s signature style, along with a new version of the classic Gucci Zumi bag.  Mask played a significant role in the collection (although not for sale) models wore variations of slasher movie masks, fetish masks and masks with mythology references. “A mask is hollow but also full,” said Michele.

‘The mask is a cut between visible and invisible’ read Gucci’s press statement. ‘The mask itself always holds a tension between divergent impulses: exhibition and concealment, manifestation and protection, vanity and modesty. The mask is a form. And, as every form, it’s able to repair, cover and, at the same time, expose. visible and invisible. Who wears it is dressed with what undresses. The mask becomes the means through which we can become what we feel we are. The mask, in fact, lets us show ourselves as we please. It’s the possibility to choose how to exercise our freedom to show ourselves through a powerful filter that constantly selects what we want to share about us and what we want to conceal instead.’

Alessandro Michele is one of the most exciting designers of our generation. Michele designs pieces that you really want! covet is an understatement. This was a pivotal show, a turning point in fashion, a moment that will become iconic. Michele has transformed Gucci, he has given the brand a whole new identity, a new lease of life… Gucci is edgy again.

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