Playing with points of view and perspectives, J.W. Anderson has dramatized the human silhouette to trick the eye in Loewe’s new menswear collection. With elongated legs, extra-high waists, and compact busts, the show was a delightful retelling of classic pieces presented in a not-so-straightforward way.
The collection included basics like blazers, coats, banker shirts, knitted polos, matching sets, argyle knits, jeans, and chinos, and imagined them in a lighthearted yet slightly deceitful way. Ultra highrise trousers were speckled with unexpected glitter, a cardigan’s neckline and sleeves were asymmetrical, and a navy jacket and pants set ombré-d from suede to shiny leather.
As part of the collection’s exploration with perspective, American artist Lynda Benglis’s large fountains protruded from a rectangular pool, dwarfing the models and show-goers. The water-spouting sculptures composed of stacked bronze forms aimed to draw the eye up, dazzling viewers with their grandeur.
Proportions were also examined through more experimental pieces like trousers that sprung up from a pair of shoes, tops that were pinned in place rather than sewn, and gestural cuts in silhouettes. Models were clad in accessories like round-toe Chelsea boots and sandals, along with oversized bags like the suede Pebble bucket and Puzzle Fold totes.