Unlike many floundering fashion labels, Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s eponymous label has flourished since the crux of the pandemic. The French designer’s sexed-up approach to menswear has captured the attention of a social media savvy generation whose most formative years have come to a screeching halt. Saint Sernin’s “E-Boy” Fall/Winter 2021 collection once again proved the creative’s knack for tapping into the sex-positive zeitgeist of young consumers —  the designer showcased a bevy of comfortable laced ready to wear, intimate pieces, and outerwear. 

For Spring/Summer 2022, the Parisian label continued its overarching exploration of sexuality through a muted color palette and pieces that ooze sexuality and quiet comfort.

Following the breakthrough success of his eyelet intimates, Saint Sernin incorporated both undergarment-inspired pieces and also more everyday touch points like an oversized button down and low-rise knit trousers.

Though Saint Sernin’s design hand is undoubtedly muted, the creative has a knack for exalting his design signatures throughout his collections — eyelet and laced pieces have become a monogram of sorts for the Parisian brand.

What Saint Sernin nails for Spring/Summer 2022 is the intersection of social media and youth culture. After being held hostage by slouchy sweat suits, fashionable generations are undoubtedly longing for a return to glamorous dressing — and Saint Sernnin’s sheer dresses and erotic knitwear will grant those sartorial wishes, both IRL and on Instagram feeds.

The collection also featured a range of swimwear and barely there coverups — a market the sensual label began exploring as a part of the Spring collection at the behest of an eager customer base. The move feels natural, as Saint Sernin’s now famed eyelet briefs mirror the shapes of swimwear. Arriving in a variety of silhouettes — and sensual lace ups — the range spans bikini bottoms to bra tops named after idyllic getaways like Positano, Mykonos, and Marrakech.

The collection’s quiet sensuality is what sets the label apart. It’s quintessentially French, inclusive, and exudes an aura of confidence and assuredness. 

Sexual — without becoming restrictive — Saint Sernin’s latest collection challenges the notions of intimacy, desire, and gender expression. Though the collection’s slinky silhouettes may be increasingly daring for some, the designer smartly tapped into an industry-wide blurring of gender and sexuality.