Ludovic de Saint Sernin celebrated its fifth season as a brand by debuting its SS23 collection entitled ‘Mirage’. The young Parisian house is named for its creative director and founder. They are dedicated to designing sensual garments that transcend gender norms. The pieces are intended to be worn by all, no matter their gender expression. LdSS’s SS23 ‘Mirage’ collection centered around the work of photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, a longtime muse for the brand, and Saint Sernin’s time in exploring temples in Berlin. Scarlet anthuriums were worn as corsages and pinned to the designs as a nod to Mapplethorpe’s most known work photographing the distinctive flowers.

Eyelet Briefs – the brand’s signature piece – are interpreted in denim, leather, and swim knits. Micro-minis in pleated denim and leather are on theme with this season’s romanticization of all things from the 90s. Bratz Dolls come to mind. Silver, black, blush, and brown croc-embossed leather was used to create lace-up combat boots and juxtaposing stilettos.

LdSS pushes the boundaries of gender expression more intensely than older fashion houses, a testament to the bold, unapologetic nature of the youthful brand. Male models and female models alternated wearing pleated mini dresses, sheer tops, and sparkling skirts made of crystals. The show was a raw, queer sexual experience that shimmered particularly due to the brand’s dresses and asymmetrical skirts made from high-grade crystal mesh as a result of sponsorship by Swarovski, offering optimal movement and shine.

For those who missed the runway show or just can’t get enough of it, the collection will be on full display starting on Monday 3rd October 2023, as part of a week-long presentation of the most iconic LdSS crystal pieces produced to date – and the collection’s full set of looks will be held at the Austrian jeweler’s Champs Elysées flagship.