Back in 1994, when the world was hitting replay on their cassettes to Madonna’s Bedtime Stories, trying to get high scores on the new PlayStation, and taking in a bit of cinematic camp with Pulp Fiction, simultaneously, the HIV/AIDS epidemic was at its highest—wiping out members of the queer community at a speed that impacted the culture as a whole. Understanding the dire need for action, beauty giant M·A·C stepped in to raise awareness and launched VIVA GLAM (anyone remember that viral RuPaul campaign?) Now, over thirty years and half a billion dollars later, thanks to 100% of the proceeds going towards the cause through the M·A·C Aids Fund, the newly appointed Global Creative Director of the brand, Nicola Formichetti, is keeping the beat going with the first VIVA GLAM activation under his reign. 

Following the sensation of the “Protect the Dolls” t-shirt by London-based designer Conner Ives, worn during his FW25 show that took the world by storm around this time last year, Formichetti has joined forces with Ives to release a limited edition “Protect the Dolls” lipstick and t-shirt, landing just in time for Trans Day of Visibility. The collaboration features the M·A·Cximal Silky Matte in shade Viva Planet, designed to complement any skin tone, paired with a black version of the viral shirt—complete with M·A·C VIVA GLAM adorned on the back. Doubling down on the impact of the shirt, in which over 17,000 shirts were sold and raised over $600,000 for Trans Lifeline and Not a Phase in the UK, M·A·C will continue to support its nonprofit partners, which serves the broader LGBTQ+ community, include organizations such as Mermaids, The Trevor Project’s 24/7 crisis services, and more.

Ahead of the reveal of the campaign, which sees industry dolls such as actress Dominique Jackson, model Josephine DuPont, ballroom icon Ivy Stewart, and DJ/Founder of Club Kim, Green Kim, V brought together Formichetti and Ives to discuss how the partnership all came to be.

V MAGAZINE: Nicola, did you first come up with the idea to partner with Conner Ives for VIVA GLAM this year?

NICOLA FORMICHETTI: Partnering with Conner came naturally. I deeply respected the Protect the Dolls movement. What resonated was that, like VIVA GLAM, 100% of proceeds go back to charity. That shared commitment created a synergy. I saw the opportunity to amplify Protect the Dolls on a global scale via VIVA GLAM.

V: Why did you decide to go back to the original shade for this year’s launch?

NF: We chose the original VIVA PLANET shade because it’s a timeless pink-nude. Conner envisioned a ’90s-infused neutrality that’s modern again today. Beyond shade, the synergy is in the 100% give-back model, ensuring the message goes deeper than the lipstick.

V: Do you remember your first reaction to seeing the virality of the “Protect the Dolls” t-shirt? How did that make you feel?

Courtesy of M.A.C Cosmetics

NF: My first reaction to the Protect the Dolls’ virality was a sense of authenticity. It was more than fashion. It was genuine activism. That’s why I wanted to ensure VIVA GLAM could give it an even larger platform.

V: Why do you think the message and impact of the VIVA GLAM initiative resonates in today’s cultural climate now more than ever?

NF: VIVA GLAM’s message resonates because it’s action-oriented. Since 1994, we’ve never waited for the comfortable moment. With over half a billion raised, we aim for a billion. Now more than ever, people seek brands that stand for something.

V:  Who are you hoping to see purchase the collaboration? What do you hope people can take away from this experience as a whole?

NF: This collaboration is for anyone who wants to be part of creating meaningful change. But remember, this is just a conversation starter. I encourage people to research organizations like the Trevor Project or Mermaids, and find their own ways to contribute.

V: Conner, how did it feel when you were approached by MAC and Nicola for this collaboration? Do you recall how you felt during that very first meeting?

CONNER IVES: I was floored. I grew up as a huge fan of Nicola, being a little monster at a time when I was desperate for a pop star like that. The imagery blew my mind and really shaped my early interests in fashion and art. So it felt really surreal to be able to work with someone that I owe a lot of the credit to for why I’m working in this industry now. 

V: What does the VIVA GLAM initiative mean to you? What was your knowledge of VIVA GLAM prior to joining forces with M·A·C through this program?

Courtesy of M.A.C Cosmetics

CI: M·A· VIVA GLAM was a huge milestone for me. We’ve been super selective with collaborations over the years at Conner Ives, I’ve always wanted to ensure that our brand values are shared with our collaborators. My earliest VIVA GLAM memory is Nicola’s campaign [that] he made with Lady Gaga, for the 2011 campaign. The image was shot by Nick Knight, and the shade was this dusty pink nude. That inspired the lipstick shade we chose for this release, and I actually wore a tee from that release for my bow at my SS26 show, on pop. 

V: Coming off of that viral “Protect the Dolls” t-shirt moment that dominated the previous season, how has that worldwide recognition been for you as a designer turned into being one of the latest driving forces for a conversation surrounding the protection of the Trans community?

Courtesy of M.A.C Cosmetics

CI: It’s been incredible! I always say with great power comes great responsibility. I just feel that I have a duty to carry this campaign as far as it can go, and this is only the beginning in what I hope will be a long commitment to the community. 

V: From previous collections, you’ve been known to use dead-stock material and vintage pieces. Do you feel that the virality of your t-shirt has only fueled your approach to designing with storytelling at its core? In a way, has the t-shirt propelled your interpretation of what luxury could mean for today’s consumers? 

CI: Absolutely. I think the t-shirt was a huge growth spurt for us. I was always told that everything would change with our first ‘viral’ product, and I became really scared of making it. I wanted to ensure I could stay true to my brand values, while still having that moment, and I couldn’t really understand how a product that was meant to sell thousands could be sustainable. It was comforting then to create this tee and have that moment be something that did so much good for so many. 

V: Why do you both think the message and impact of the VIVA GLAM initiative resonate in today’s cultural climate now more than ever?

Courtesy of M.A.C Cosmetics

NF & CI: I think it was the way we approached this fundraiser. Politics in fashion can sometimes feel ingenuine or self-serving. The fact that we raised this kind of money and donated all of the proceeds to charity sets a precedent for activism, one that I hope more brands will follow suit on. That’s why working with M·A·C VIVA glam was such a natural next step for us; they were committed to the same kind of structuring that we did in ensuring that all proceeds go to charity. We love that. 

V: Who are you hoping to see purchase the collaboration? What do you hope people can take away from this experience as a whole?

NF & CI: Anyone and everyone! All we ask is that the message is spread; this tee has done incredible things for sparking conversations around trans people, queer communities and the origins of the term doll in the Harlem ballroom scene. We had so many people messaging us just wanting to educate themselves more on the origins, the queer history behind this tee. All I could ask is that anyone that purchases the tee carries with them that education, that herstory! I hope this will lead to a world with a deeper understanding of the people that came before us and made something like this fundraiser possible.