Maison Margiela FW19 Couture Battles Sensory Overload
John Galliano’s latest Margiela show searches for authenticity in the age of artificial realities and digital perfection.
Last couture season, Margiela was all about exploring digital chaos and over-consumption. This season, for Maison Margiela FW19 Couture, John Galliano made sense of sensory overload by exploring imperfections, and by disconnecting (both figuratively and literally): looks featured ripped panels, exposed lining and visible tailoring stitches.
The show took place at Margiela HQ in Paris, where the mirrored runway from last season made a reappearance. Projected onto the walls were images of body parts as shot by British-born artist, photographer, and filmmaker Katerina Jebb.
This coed collection featured standout menswear pieces that would look great in any girl’s closet, such as the navy v-neck sweaters and semi-translucent blazers. A deconstruction theme continued with distorted basques, crudely painted accessories and “nomad cutting”, Galliano’s name for tailoring pieces inside out and upside down. Looks followed with handmade holes, both a celebration and commentary on flaws and the raw beauty of imperfections.
Galliano is on a personal journey of rediscovery and this was reflected in the show. Fashion’s greatest storyteller is now telling his own story.
Early this year, Galliano retreated to the Arizona desert to reconnect with himself and his creative ideas, as he recounted to Dazed: “I just didn’t know how to do it any more because I was so overwhelmed by information.” It was in Arizona where the designer found inspiration for this collection, a ‘wonderful horse called Blue’ whose imagery was seen in a number of looks and also used for accessories. Models wore earrings in the shape of horses.
The collection proceeded with voluminous dresses cut from abstract prints and feminine men’s looks.
You can view all of the best looks from Maison Margiela FW19 Couture in the slideshow below.