Self-expression intertwines with creativity in Maison Margiela’s 2024 Artisanal Collection. With Creative Director John Galliano at the forefront, the collection is not just a display of intricate designs, but also an exploration into the underbelly of Paris, with each piece embodying an offline Parisian narrative.

Body-modifying corsets and cinchers and featherlight outfits take center stage, while dresses feature minimal detail and conversational cuts. Made using several techniques curated by Galliano, like milletrage, seamlace, retrograding and more, the outfits feel—quite literally—light as a feather, hiding layers upon layers of fabric underneath.

Inspired by black-and-white photos by Brassaï, the colors in the collection create a visual masterpiece, with deep blues, greys, and browns mixing with softer colors like lavender and lilac. The vibrant colors from Kees Van Dongen’s art add vibrancy, reflecting the many phases of emotion individuals grapple with in their daily lives. 

True to Maison Margiela’s distinctive style, accessories play a significant role. Similar to props in a theatrical production, these additions help to guide the story by emphasizing every minor detail. Reflecting the garment style, glossy foam, chiffon, and muslin hats create a harmonious visual narrative. Meanwhile, silk organza goggles and turbans make a bold and expressive statement.

A collaboration with Stephen Jones is apparent in the presentation of molded loups and leather breastplates mimicking porcelain and wood. Completing the ensembles are top-handle Snatched bags in an origami style and muses adorned in stocking materials and pearl necklaces. For the maison’s final act: a collaboration with Christian Louboutin. Models are seen strutting the runway in the shoe brand’s iconic red-soled pumps, Tabi two-piece heels, knee-high boots, and lace-up derbies.