Amongst the tried and true New York labels showing this season, two names stood out for all the right reasons: Fendi and Francesco Risso’s Marni. The latter, who staged its Spring/Summer 2023 collection under the Manhattan Bridge, brought its signature off-kilter, designer flair the cobble stone streets of the city—officially confirming the European invasion of New York Fashion Week.

Since taking the reins of the Italian brand in 2016, Risso has completely reshaped its facade, gaining traction amongst fashion insiders and big names like Madonna, Doja Cat, Paloma Elsesser, Tyler Mitchell—all of whom were in attendance or graced the runway.

This season, Risso looked to the natural beauty of the Italian countryside—an inspiration reflected in the collection’s palette of burnt oranges, deep reds, and psychedelic yellows. Backed by a Dev Hynes soundtrack, the collection re-upped Risso’s rebuttal of fashion’s rulebook with smart twists on classic tailoring and menswear shapes leading the way.

As always, Risso placed an emphasis on textures: distressed, slinky knits, delicate mohairs, subtle velvets, and gauze-like jersey ribs. Gradated prints—mirroring the halo-like nature of a sunset—appeared on sheer tanks, crop tops, and pieced together bombers.

The designer’s New York showing was eccentric, yes, but there remained an innate sense of familiarity—floor-length trenches, leather wide-shouldered blazers, and tapered trousers would be an ideal fit for any wardrobe. And though the more daring pieces may seem unwearable for the everyday, it makes perfect sense. Risso is a storyteller, and his clothes act as a living vessel of undying imagination and vision for the Italian brand.

Risso’s Marni is undoubtedly wearable. But the Italian also possesses an undeniable verve of imagination and vibrato that sets the label apart from its counterparts. Because who else is churning out open-knit underwear layered under color-blocked overcoats?

And after showing in New York, Risso confirmed that the Italian brand will not return to the runways of Milan anytime soon—at least until the brand’s 30th anniversary in 2024. And where will Risso go next? The jury is still out. But we will certainly be tagging along for the ride.