The Danish designer returned to the runway for Copenhagen Fashion Week AW22. This was Martin Asbjørn’s first runway collection since 2019. The designer delivered a progressive collection with a unique mix of shapes, styles and cuts to flatter everybody regardless of shape and gender.
Known for his clever use of tailoring and sports luxe vibes, Asbjørn’s goal was to make “great clothes” for everyone, “I’m really into what’s happening right now. People are blurring the lines between menswear and womenswear and what’s appropriate and what’s not appropriate within self expression,” said the designer. He continued with “A beautiful garment has the power to elevate and empower the wearer.”

Faced with travel restrictions and limited access to the world at large, Asbjørn decided to meditate on the transformative nature of a modern wardrobe. The end result is a collection that ignores labels, celebrates individuality and that can be worn however by whoever. That transformative theme plays throughout the collection. It’s somehow both a mix of seriousness and sexy, a turtle neck is worn with a metallic micro mini and a sheer sequined dress is worn over suit pants. Business like staples, blazers, and suit pants are paired with pleated mini skirts or iridescent flowy tops. “When I dress up myself, I want to feel sexy,” he says. “I want those items in my wardrobe that make me feel really good about myself.”

The palette was earthy neutrals, khaki, and black, with burnt orange and pale green with vintage-inspired dashes of metallic pink and aqua. Sequins make an unexpected appearance strewn across a slip dress worn over slouchy tailored pants. Traditional suiting is subverted throughout the collection with pleats bursting from the back of a jacket or falling down the side of a short skirt. Bell-bottom flares combined with oversize jackets form a new idea for a classic suit. References to traditional tailoring appear with unfinished linings protruding from sleeves and legs, whilst exposed stitching in the place of missing buttons echoes the craft of the tailor himself. Asbjørn’s signature leather pieces also feature, distressed finishes to biker jackets and shirts. There was a contrast of texture and transparency, with a sporty bomber, and double stacked coats worn with sheer tanks and t-shirts.

Check out the collection in full below.