Inspired by 1970s and ‘80s community centers-turned-makeshift nightclubs, Martine Rose’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection is a celebration of subcultural youths of diverse expressions. The show was presented within St Joseph’s Parish Centre near the designer’s Crouch Hill Studio and aimed to reflect the juxtaposition between tradition and change within the community center setting.
Rose has re-imagined class silhouettes in rugged fabrications, elongating voluminous jacket shoulders and disrupting neon safety pants with a delicate girdle. Textures are experimented with yet aren’t the focus of the collection–shiny hard leather is contrasted by slippery silk shirts and a dusty rose jacquard suit is simplified with a cotton t-shirt.
An interesting balance is struck between work gear and street-style pieces with more ladylike motifs like micro-crochet and floral prints. While menswear was presented, the styles are decidedly gender-neutral. No print is too feminine and no jacket is too boxy for the show’s models. Men’s shirting, camisoles, inverted skirts, and leather jackets are Rose’s modern take on vintage clubbing looks.
Notably, the collection featured two shoe styles from Martine Rose’s role as Guest Creative Director of Clarks, Coming Up Roses by Martine Rose for Clarks. A men’s Oxford and women’s heeled loafer will both be available in black leather and mock-exotics. Martine Rose’s collaboration with Nike was also present and the show debuted a new black colorway of the Shox MR4 trainer with a paint-splatter print.
The British-Jamaican designer also collaborated with the interdisciplinary artist and designer Yaz XL to create colorful ear cuffs with ostrich plumes and mohair embellishments. NYC-based jeweler LL, LLC was also tapped to create earrings and rings looking like matchsticks. The modern looping and coiling pieces perfectly contrast the ladylike pearl necklaces and chokers. Through this collection, Martine Rose successfully proves that one can have it all: masculinity and femininity, work and fun, dancing and community.