For Givenchy, spring/summer 2022 is all about being bold.

In his debut menswear and womenswear runway collection for Givenchy, creative director Matthew M. Williams built a sleek contemporary uniform at Paris Fashion Week. This is not the Givenchy of unattainable elevation and strict sophistication, but instead, a modern Givenchy, one youthful and fun, with the same timeless elegance the label is known for, only now, made more eclectic, more urban, more edgy (if the Young Thug soundtrack at the show didn’t give it away by itself). 

Youthful graphics by Josh Smith, sharp tailoring and modern silhouettes comprise the collection, embedded in a palette of sleek black and beige. Instead of evening gowns (or even maxi dresses), a motif of ruffled and pleated short skirts weaves its way through the collection, adorning looks styled with leather peplum tops that teeter between feminine and fierce. 

Williams does not take the avant garde approach when it comes to silhouettes; instead, classics are reprised in blazers, A-line dresses, zip-up hoodies, even utilitarian vests and coats. The fun begins when you dig beneath the top layer: cropped bra tops, draped, oversized tees, fitted corsets with tulle skirts and sheer tank tops ending with structured ruffles at the hem bring bursts of energy to the collection, adding a much-appreciated dose of youth and whimsy to the staple pieces. 

As a whole, the collection expresses sleekness, a sense of elevated luxury that is free and sprightly, a fresh renaissance for Givenchy. Between poised plaid, solid shades of mint, lavender, black and white and edgy graphics, Williams covered every base in a cohesive, structured way.

Standout looks of the collection effortlessly tie in the sharp elegance of Givenchy with a more playful, urban approach. A cropped knit sweater with oversized shoulders paired with a mini skirt and thigh-high leather boots screams ‘young’ but ‘rich’; a peplum zip-up coat in beige plaid with mint trim gives sophistication a new look; and a head-to-toe Josh Smith look, complete with lavender trousers and a white coat, gives casual streetwear an air of nouveau riche nonchalance. 

At Paris Fashion Week, one thing is certain: the genius of Matthew Williams has been cemented in the world of Givenchy.