Opening the Fall/Winter 2023 runway for Miu Miu was none other than the fashion darling and bonafide scream queen herself, Mia Goth, in a gray close-to-the-body cardigan, a black-on-white polka dot midi skirt, and a pair of black tights. She’s quite ladylike, well, until you notice her cardigan is tucked into the tights, her kitten heel straps splay out from the shoe, and her hair is quite tousled right at the crown of her head. This sort of softly perverse essence of ladylike-ness defines Miuccia Prada’s fall collection for the brand, with the show largely categorized by prim and proper officewear that has been disturbed into a delightful display of sexiness.

As far as officewear goes, Prada has leaned into an ironic sensibility. Deep v-neck blouses are almost entirely sheer, while frocks of the same fabrication reveal the body, or cleverly branded Miu Miu underwear underneath. A range of mélange knit skirt suits was delightfully oversized in the suit jacket while sensibly simple in the skirt silhouette. The same kitten heels that Goth sported were plentiful on the runway, while almost half of the looks were topped off by teeny-weeny glasses that are preciously nerdy. 

3-D floral arrangements have adorned sheer cardigans and dresses, their softness then contrasted by either an oversized leather suit jacket or a Carhart-adjacent bomber. Cardigans have been scrunched whilst tucked underneath tights in a display of tongue-in-cheek wackiness that is just as humorous as it is chic. Perhaps the most shocking display of subversion is in the sizable amount of looks where pants are traded for a pair of underwear. Underwear has been crafted in a multitude of fabrications, from renditions in more straightforward jersey to intricately embroidered pairs, which were worn by Emma Corrin as they closed the show. 

While in some looks, the lack of pants are semi-obstructed by longer jackets, a decent amount of looks show off the undies in plain sight, in an almost casual display of sexiness. The sensuality of the underwear is almost ironized by the elegant way in which the bags are held by the models; resting in the bend of the arm in a display of properness. 

The looks that veered away from the more subverted office looks were Miu Miu’s version of a model, or rather, lady-off-duty look. Scrumptious layering that calls back to their SS23 show in September is seen in the form of scrunched jersey leggings and more fashion-forward structured zip-up hoodies. Several of these looks have been topped off by suit jackets or wool overcoats, showing that your on-the-go errand outfit can be just as chic as the carefully-curated lewk you put together for a day at the office. 

Season after season, Miu Miu continues to prove itself as clearly having its finger on the pulse of the zeitgeist. In addition to Goth and Corrin on the runway, the show cast Zaya Wade, Amelia Gray, Noen Eubanks, and V142 cover star Ethel Cain to walk — a host of personalities that scream “oh, so coquette!” Miss Prada is a genius in terms of subverting classic looks, and this Miu Miu collection is no exception, with the perverse sense of nerdiness that took place on the runway being nothing short of enjoyable to watch.