Loved for her fantastical tulle creations, designer Molly Goddard has been venturing in new sartorial directions the past few seasons. While the brand’s signature fabric remains a mainstay, recent seasons have seen the British designer move into the realm of menswear—tartan trousers, fair isle sweaters, and kilt-inspired frocks. Too, the designer has tried her hand in knitwear, offering a welcomed juxtaposition to her overly feminine pieces.

Now, the designer is continuing that refreshed aesthetic direction for her Fall/Winter 2022 collection. A marquee name on the London Fashion Week calendar, Goddard looked to layered, oversized silhouettes and reimagined tailoring this season.

“The collection is inspired by Portobello and Camden market in the late 80s and 90s,” Goddard explained in a statement released to V. “Our mum’s best friend when we were younger was very central to the Portobello social scene then and the collection is somewhat based around her. I would describe her from what I can remember as a cross between Marilyn Monroe and Mick Jones.”

Returning to an in-person runway for the first since the onset of the pandemic, Goddard’s penchant for tulle and newly found knack for tailoring was on full display. Playful layering and sleek suiting were focal points throughout the collection while a muted, yet joyful, color palette accented the designer’s thoughtful ready-to-wear.

As always, British references were strewn throughout the collection, seen through Goddard’s use of floral and plaid motifs as well as trench-inspired detailing. Re-upping her exploration of menswear, the British creative showed her continued interested in tailoring as well as new ventures such as crossbody bags and cropped sweaters. The intersection of masculine silhouettes—army surplus jackets, trenches—contrasted with Goddard’s feminine textile choices of taffeta and tulle.

Experimenting with layered ruffles and powder pink accents, Molly Goddard’s latest collection showed that joyful hues and vivid silhouettes aren’t exclusive to the Spring and Summer seasons. Oversized sweaters layered over panier-inspired tulle skirts and organza tops certainly helped proved that sentiment while versatile outerwear maintained a sense of utilitarian ease that we have become accustomed to in Fall fashion.

Leaning into the commercial aspect of her eponymous label, Molly Goddard has found her footing, cementing herself as a force to be reckoned within the London fashion scene. Wearable, yet playfully unique, pieces is what has set the brand a part of late. And this season was no different: five of Goddard’s billowing tulle gowns closed out the color-packed collection.

See the full runway show below: