Moschino Returns to Milan For Surrealist Fall/Winter 2022 Collection
Creative Director Jeremy Scott showcased a dynamic collection filled with nostalgic references and campy motifs.
“If someone, or something, was tasked with creating the clone of a grand manor today, would baroque picture frames, stately armoires, grandfather clocks and crystal-dripped chandeliers still mark the trappings of a monied dwelling?”
For Moschino Creative Director Jeremy Scott, this multi-faceted question was at top of mind this season. As with a multitude of designers over the past two years, Scott has been keen to experiment with virtual presentations and one-of-a-kind formats. But truly, nothing tops a Moschino runway show.
Though Scott’s varying virtual ventures—puppetry, stop motion videos, and classic look books—have been well-received, the dynamic designer was certainly ready to return to the runway. While the label presented its Spring/Summer 2022 collection at Bryant Park as apart of the New York Fashion Week schedule, its Milan homecoming—the brand’s first showing in the Italian city since 2020—was a must-see spectacle full of humorous ready-to-wear and nostalgic references.
The brand’s storied archives served as major inspiration for Scott this season. In specific, house founder Franco Moschino’s usage of cutlery brooches and hot-and-cold faucet handles as accents were overarching references, as well as the idea of a ‘well-appointed home.’ Coupled with a exploration of surrealist references—specifically the work of filmmaker Stanley Kubrick–Scott took attendees on an energetic, and personality-filled, journey.
As models dynamically strutted to operatic tunes, guests were offered a stylish look inside Scott’s surrealist, gold-filled world. Opening the show was a trio of a-line, 90’s inspired pieces adorned with chunky gold hardware. Then, Scott found his footing, showcasing a variety of sculptural gowns and outerwear, a niche in which the American designer certainly thrives.
If it wasn’t clear from the lamp shade headpieces and draped tapestry gowns, Scott’s collection mirrored the stylish essentials of any well to-do home. From all-over cutlery embroidery to trompe l’oeil harps, the ornate decor of aristocrats like Louis XIV was contextualized in the playful world of Moschino. Too, humorous phrases like ‘Maid in Italy’ and ‘Gilt not Guilt’ were seen emblazoned on slinky mini dresses.
Looking past the designer’s campy notions, Scott’s knack for construction was on full display. Effortlessly draped, couture-like gowns and cut-to-perfection skirt suits proved that the American creative is a jack of all trades.
Not only toying with nostalgic references, Scott also infused an element of futurism—many silhouettes recalled the styles of vintage sci-fi sitcoms—and dubbed the collection as ‘A Space Opulence.’ And if the runway show wasn’t enough of a spectacle, Scott received audience applause while wearing a bright red space suit.
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