Moschino's PF19 Builds an Empire on Hyperbole
Text: Brandon Tan
Moschino's PF19 runway show took us to camp—no, not the Summers-in-Pennsylvania type. We're talking this-year's-Met-Gala-theme kind of camp. As the creative director, Jeremy Scott, is known to do, he brought exaggerated characters, borrowed motifs and hyperbolic fantasies to life at Rome’s Cinecittà Studios. Naming 20th-century Italian filmmaker, Federico Fellini, as a direct influence for the Milanese brand's latest collection, Scott sourced a number of Fellini-flicks for inspiration in the grandiose collection.
La Strada, Casanova, La Dolce Vita, Nights of Cabiria and of course, Roma, all served as distinct references for the show. Their influences saw form as romantic, red regalia, feathered feasts of Ostrich plume and golden glitz on the backs of models including Teddy Quinlivan and Soo Joo Park. Ancient transcriptions were also embroidered into tweed coats, with Roman numerals making appearance across sleeves—obvious odes to the city that hosted the show tonight. Whereas Chanel's Metiers d'Art show brought Egypt to its audience at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, Moschino literally brought its audience to Rome.
Trading abs of steel for ones of gold, men marched down the runway donning gilded chest plates and Trojan helmets, prepared for the battlefield that is fashion. All in all, Moschino's PF19 collection was an impressive display of showmanship, a respectable homage to the figure it sourced inspiration from, while also representative Jeremy Scott's Moschino: perfected pandemonium.