Nᵒ21’s Fall/Winter 2022 women’s and menswear collection debut at Milan Fashion Week featured a darker hued palette filled with greys, mahoganies, and ebony with flashes of gold and silver. The women’s and menswear collection created by Nᵒ21 founder and creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua includes formal wear trench coats, turtle necks, cropped long sleeve shirts, and more.

Its dress pieces showcased angular cuts and transparent chiffon material that give these designs a semi-flared look. This style is also apparent within the collection’s off-the-shoulder cardigan articles, vests, and suit pieces which combine to exude distinct lines of delineation, a seemingly predominate theme throughout.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s vision for the collection attributes to how materials come together and create a narrative structure. This theme is apparent within the bias cut of the atelier origin, topstitching styling to produce a shapely impact, and Harris tweed edging throughout the collection’s chiffon crépon dresses, to name a few. Its accessories includes the Loulou thermoformed padded shoulder bag with a metal chain strap and various pointed sandals, moccasins, and pump shoe styles.

In a press statement for V, Dell’Acqua delves into the collection’s conceptualization and overall creative process. “I believe the most important thing to recover these days is the spontaneous character of fashion: an operation we can perform only through the clothes, no longer building superstructures about the meanings they enfold,” he shared. “So the starting point for this collection isn’t simply a back to tailoring concept, clearly evident in all the items I designed for a wardrobe to be shared in full by women and men; it involves the rewrite in an up to date key of fashion’s now centuries-old techniques and vocabulary.”

Dell’Acqua connects this point to reasons for specific garment direction. “That’s why I developed a way to re-instate the bias cut and make it extra spectacular through the use of macro paillettes; and why, for example, I did sartorial cut jackets yet setting out from classic corsetry techniques. Actually, what I cared about most was updating the language in order to obtain female and male figures that best reflect the times, which while as yet imprecise are forming the personalities of the future.”

Explore looks from the Nᵒ21 Fall/Winter 2022 collection below.