As the new-age prince of Balmain, Olivier Rousteing has been the brand’s Creative Director for the past 13 years, going back time and time again to the brand’s origins and channeling its incredible 78-year history. With Rousteing known for incorporating such things as Pierre Balmain’s iconic ‘Jolie Madame’ silhouette of a cinched waist, strong shoulders, and unmatched tailoring, maintaining the brand’s heritage has always been central to Rousteing’s collections.

This season, Rousteing is diving back into the brand’s past for inspiration, but this time focusing on his own collections, riffing on his own legacy within the fashion house. The collection celebrates the designs he created while still drawing from Balmain’s archives.

Fans of the brand can still see classic Balmain styles imbued through this collection: angular hips, sharp shoulders, and architectural tailoring are present throughout the collection. Also incorporated are newer design elements signature to Rousteing’s time at Balmain, such as tweed, the brand’s signature marinière horizontal stripes, and his legendary intricate pearl embroidery.

The most notable looks in this collection were those that gave a new spin to Rousteing’s famous use of embroidery. Dresses, blazers, pants, and tops with sharp, bold shoulders were adorned with embroidered beads that created detailed images of faces and hand fragments.

However, Fans of Rousteing can see sublet nods to his own style. “My team and I have been inspired by one quite unexpected, yet very familiar, Balmain symbol—my own personal wardrobe,” notes the designer in a statement. “The often-repeated combo of skinny leather pants and a DB jacket thrown over a simple tee or tank has been my go-to look for closing runways and meeting with the press for over a decade—and now it’s been adapted to form part of this season’s extensive daywear offerings.”

Balmain’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection offers a nostalgic element, staying true to the brand’s identity but also honoring the last 13 years of iconic Balmain designs that revived the fashion house. The collection feels like Rousteings love letter to his time at Balmain and showcases his deep understanding of the brand’s DNA.