Olivier Theyskens’ Final Journey Into The Textile Archives

Spring/Summer 2023 completes the designer’s triptych of reformulated archival pieces.

In the third and final part of his investigation into archival textiles, Olivier Theyskens returns with a bang. For Paris Fashion Week, Olivier Theyskens collection, styled by V’s fashion director, Gro Curtis, presented a series of floor-length gowns and suits, dripping with opulence and grandeur, and all made out of recycled textiles from the brand’s history. After his SS22 and AW23 collections used the same theming, this final collection marks the biggest addition to the series. Filled with illusive beauty and mysticism, the collection is a feat of design. 

Image courtesy of Olivier Theyskens

From a visual standpoint, the collection is jaw-dropping in its use of fabric draping and silhouette work. Long languid forms create liquid garments, masquerading the repurposed textiles as new, flowing looks. Limited ruffles and accessories adorn garments, but ultimately the looks are a feat of design and tailoring alone. They’re elegant and classic, with each garment serving as a piece of art in its own right.

Image courtesy of Olivier Theyskens

Theyskens’ use of archival textiles leads to some fascinating tilework, blocking out textiles and connecting different patterns. He clearly has an eye for color and light, compiling fabrics that seem to flow together seamlessly. In one of the collection’s most outwardly gorgeous looks, warm floral patterns are blocked together to form a V out of the base, almost like rays of sun. Structured shoulders cut off the tiling, but a flowing base makes the dress seem infinitely long. What is an amalgamation of several patterns becomes one look, standing on its own and inspiring awe. 

Image courtesy of Olivier Theyskens

As the finale to a three-part series, the SS23 proves how successful a Theyskens project can be. Theyskens is an artist first, perfecting his vision in all of its intricacies. Parts one and two were triumphs in their own right, but this final part seems to be the pièce de résistance, a sort of cherry on top. It’s completely stunning, from head to toe, and look to look.

Image courtesy of Olivier Theyskens
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