Opposing Instincts: Tory Burch SS23 NYFW

Signature house codes intertwine with Burch’s own personal realities.

Set against an evocative backdrop of the Hudson River at Pier 76, a sunset casts over a celestial mobile suspended across the runway as Tory Burch’s latest Spring Summer collection fuses signatures with the ultramodern. Personal and intuitive, Burch’s debut merges house codes with her own personal memories drawing on the early ’90s when she first relocated to New York City. 

As models stepped out, a hand-selected soundtrack by Wladimir Schall featuring, “Suite Bergamasque” by Tomita, “Whole Lotta (V dub edit)” by Led Zeppelin, “I Heard it Through the Grapevine” by The Slits, “Don’t Break My Heart” by UB40, and “Tonight, Tonight” by The Smashing Pumpkins cast a zeitgeist of electric nostalgic over the runway. 

With this season comes an innate and slightly strange palette; mixing cool neutrals, optic white, icy pastels, and high-shine metallics. In the absence of bold print and pattern, the colors emphasize material, texture, and silhouette. Burch shared, “The Spring/Summer 2023 collection is defined by opposing instincts: to experiment freely and to pare everything back.”

Clean lines and an ethereal palette are the understated backdrop for a new focus on material and silhouette. The innovation of luxurious fabrics designed to move with the body — superfine knits, techno satin, weightless jerseys. An exploration of form in wrapped silhouettes, sporty separates, and the opposition of sculptural tailoring over translucent layers. All lightened by a touch of strangeness, the shock of handbags in acid colors, and surrealist shoes with trompe l’oeil toe rings and ‘inverted’ heels. 

For silhouettes, a focus on the body continues in sleek, minimalist jersey separates, feather-weight knits, and sporty cropped trousers. Several looks include jersey bandeaux ruched over the waist for soft waist definition, while others wrap gently around the body, from narrow midi skirts in stretch satin to luxurious Indian silk dresses. In contrast, the tailoring is highly architectural with molded basque tunics, sharp Italian, wool blazers, and boxy coats in gold foiled leather.

Experiments in jewelry accompany this season, featuring cosmic hoops, iridescent charms, and beads, silver snakes wrap around the wrists and biceps, and cascading wire hoops mimic the effect of multiple piercings. For handbags,  a ’90s-inspired doctor bag, takes on the modern work bag with a roomy interior and ultra-light construction.

A small, square shoulder bag with a cut-out silver Double T logo and envelope-inspired interior. On several styles, the logo reveals contrasting colors underneath. The bags’ pared-back shapes allow for a range of bold colors and surface treatments, like crinkled patent, embossed croc, contrast top-stitching, and neon embossed snake.

Watch the full show below: 

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