Out with the Old, In with the—MSGM?

As the Italian fashion house deviates from the road of self-reflection so seemingly inextricable from fashion, its latest collection refuses to look back and will only look forward instead.

Atypical in its ethos, MSGM’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection bids adieu to history. As the Italian fashion house deviates from the road of self-reflection so seemingly inextricable from fashion, its latest collection refuses to look back and will only look forward instead.

Last season, we linked up with MSGM in a dark tunnel. Strutting amongst a sliver of white light, its dewy-faced models emerged in ethereal garments whispering notions of purity and new beginnings. Tulle fluttered graciously in skirts, trousers, and accents alongside sparkling sequins of fleshy tones. Heavy on mesh, its ensembles became a membrane of vestiary enchantment. Translucence was the name of the game. Light timidly peered throughout garments, illuminating its wearers’ bodies.

The occasional pink, blue, and black made its way onto the runway with hints of chartreuse. Trousers and heels were adorned with bows, amplifying its allusions to youth. All very symbolic of spring, the show was lighthearted and refreshing.

This season, we’re brought out of the darkness and into the light. Surrounded by an expanse of beaming white walls, MSGM strips its runway to basics. Flooded by natural light, its show starts with a pulsing beat.

Courtesy of MSGM

Likely a hint to the collection’s reduced and simplified approach, the ambiance primed attendees for what would follow. Opening this season’s show is an all-black ensemble. Rounded shoulders illuminate its satiny texture as light playfully dances on its surface. Followed by a billowing faux-fur coat layered over a jumpsuit decked out in knotted accents, MSGM channels fashion’s eternal affair with the darkest of colors. While unusual in its reluctance to embrace history as a blueprint for design, it seems MSGM’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection aims to reassert black as the official fashion uniform.

Courtesy of MSGM

Faux fur everywhere! On hats, coats, shoes, and sleeves, the house weaved an unexpected layer of drama into its latest collection. With this season traveling between absolutes, lengths were either short or long, with coats sweeping the ground and ultra-cropped skirts resembling disco balls in their twinkling embellishments.

Courtesy of MSGM

Its austerity was reduced, and its hues brightened as the show charged forth. Tapping into last season’s color palette, MSGM once again featured white—this time adorned with stripes and graphic prints. The collection’s brilliance also seemed to louden as sequins and embellishments appeared in skirts, trousers, and mini-dresses. Ribbons and knots, too, abounded as models stomped throughout the white expanse of its runway.

Courtesy of MSGM

Suddenly, the show cranked up its vibrance threefold as psychedelic prints emerged in delectable swirls of emerald and indigo. Groovy, loud, dazzling—call it what you may, it was mesmerizing and added a splash of playful illusion to the mix.

With models lining up for the finale, MSGM’s affair with simplified black designs appeared more of a fling instead, as a surfeit of exclamative prints and ebullient hues flooded past attendees. With a plot twist everyone probably expected before the show started, then none after its commencement, it appeared Creative Director Massimo Giorgetti had been playing with our expectations all along.

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