From Posadas to Paris: In Conversation with Palomo Spain

From Posadas to Paris: In Conversation with Palomo Spain

Fashion’s emerging designer of the moment gets his inspiration from tranquility, desire, and Portuguese porcelain.

Fashion’s emerging designer of the moment gets his inspiration from tranquility, desire, and Portuguese porcelain.

Text: E.R. Pulgar

Alejandro Gómez Palomo’s collections seem like they were taken directly from the pages of a queer fairytale. There’s no other designer working now that has such an eye for crafting a world, from the surrealist glamour of Hotel Palomo to the dreamlike sensuality of his Fall/Winter collections, the quintessential Palomo boy in all his softness is redefining what menswear is. Palomo himself has proven himself a hurricane of a designer, as comfortable in velvet and disco boots as he is flowing ruffles á la Virginia Woolf's Orlando.

Yesterday was the two-year anniversary of founding his eponymous label, and things only look like they’re going to continue to grow after his AW18 collection "The Hunting" stormed Paris Fashion Week and only further solidified that the eyes of the fashion world are on this burgeoning, masterful creative. Palomo spoke to V over the phone from Portugal about Paris Fashion Week, preparing a new collection, and how desire finds its way into everything Palomo Spain is about.

What are you doing in Portugal?

I came for a production date and to develop some techniques that we found here, some denim and things. We were doing a tour around Portugal yesterday, just getting a look around, buying some books and things for inspiration.

Have you been looking for anything specific?

I was looking for books of curiosities and collecting things like that. And Portuguese porcelain; the tiles here, all the houses have tiles in the facade and it's quite beautiful. I bought things related to look at that.

How do you feel about the warm reception to your AW18 collection “The Hunting” at Paris Fashion Week?

Paris was really good; it was probably my favorite moment of my career. We were finally in the calendar, and it was the first day. Everyone was really excited. It was a good moment to show that collection, and I think people really understood the message. It was a collection for everyone, much subtler than the last one. That's the message I want to leave: that i can do "real fashion" as well for everyone, but still have the essence of the house. I'm happy for the show, the reviews we got, the press...it was pretty beautiful to experience. Then we did the same with the collection in Madrid with a show at the Teatro Real. They had never done a show in there and it was pretty fantastic and magic.

Even though “The Hunting” is a very different collection from your last AW collection, Objeto Sexual, how do you think desire plays into the collection? I feel like that's something that's very much important in your work.

I think that's what moves us. It's desire that really moves me. There always needs to be desire in the collection. You need to see it on a beautiful boy, and then you need to desire the feeling of that boy in that moment. I think it was a very important element in the time of making the collection. Objeto Sexual was a more sexual approach, but then this collection is different but still has the sensuality and all the sexy moments and the eroticism of the middle of the country in a very intimate kind of way. You can see the stories within that collection, within that show. it's probably the story of some of them falling in love with another side.

You're based in Posadas, no?

I live between Posadas and Madrid. Unfortunately, I have a lot of work to do and a lot of travel so more and more I'm in Madrid, but my base and my studio and everything is in the south of Spain.

Is it nice to have that escape from the bustle of fashion capitals?

Definitely, it was an important decision for me in the beginning to start from there and create a universe that only happens there. It was important for me to work there, it's a very beautiful environment. It's nice and quiet, and when you're there you can only think of your work. When I'm in my studio, all I think of is collections and creating and developing and making new clothes and things like that; the rest is just a relaxed happy life. I get to see my family and I've got a lot of people around that I can ask for help. It’s an escape from the glamorous life you would live in Madrid, going from one party to another or traveling. I go to Madrid and get the more media aspect of my career, I go to parties and dinners and things, but when I work, I work in Posadas, and no one can really distract me.

And it's important to be able to take that step back and create in peace, I feel like a lot of designers don't really get that.

I'm quite lucky. Being able to enjoy that beautiful space I'd never be able to have that in Madrid or London or Paris or anything. I enjoy the luxury of the sun, the space, the good weather, the beautiful surroundings.

Have you thought about what direction you're taking the next collection in?

I can't really tell you as I want you to see it, but we really want to experiment. When I finish a collection, I think about what I want to do next straightaway, but it comes with many different ideas that you need to process. Where are you going to go, how are you going to do it, how are you going to shoot it, and what story you want to tell after the story you just told. You need to create a story, and that story comes from talking to my boyfriend and trying to imagine something, from trips, from films you have at that particular moment. I always think about how I feel and my own experiences, so I can't really tell you, but it'll have to do with me and the way life's changing and the way we evolve in fashion. I want it to be disconnected from the last collection and that story, but I still want to have that range of luxury, but then really focus on where things are going to go, focus on the fact that the piece needs to sell while looking fresh and modern, something that we all want.

Scroll below for a look at Palomo Spain's AW18 Collection "The Hunting."

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