Peter Copping Goes Back to 1920s Paris for Lanvin Winter 2026

At the Galerie de Géologie et de Minéralogie in Paris, Lanvin reimagined menswear silhouettes through a feminine lens

Voluminous hats obscured the eyes of the models at Lanvin’s Winter 2026 womenswear runway. The front edge tipped slightly upward, while at the back, the neck flap cascaded down, generously covering the shoulders. Their anonymity felt piercing. Perhaps the free-spirited attitudes of 1920s Paris, which set the tone for the collection, spilled into these details, alongside cinematic faux-fur stoles and gloves. 

As the oldest French couture house still in operation, Lanvin drew on its century-long history of menswear for inspiration. Feminized tailoring emerged in asymmetrical dresses, waist-cinched blazers, and cuissarde boots. Fur coats, checkered coats, and trench coats appeared in sculptural, disproportionate shapes: lapels flapped to one side, thick fur clung to the hem, and leather belts buckled around both the waist and chest. 

As much as voluminous silhouettes took the limelight of the collection, the prints echoed the legacy of the late founder, Jeanne Lanvin. Motifs inspired by Lalique glass and the linear embellishments of Art Deco peeked through as subtle linings on simple dresses—elements once present in the interiors of Lanvin’s private apartments. 

Along the fringes, overworked ruffles and hand-embroidered bead droplets added a joyous sense of movement and rhythm to the silhouettes. Twisted, darted, and shirred textiles sculpted themselves around the body in flowing dresses, carefully constructing something innately feminine from a menswear-inspired wardrobe.

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