One of, if not the most anticipated fashion show of the year has arrived.
Pharrell Williams, who took over as the Men’s Creative Director of Louis Vuitton after the passing of Virgil Abloh, debuted his first collection on the Pont Neuf—the oldest bridge in Paris. The star-studded, musical performance of a show featured a heavy focus on pixelated and damier-inspired patterns, with an already iconic lineup of pixelated camouflage trunks and pieces.
Williams was first appointed the position back in February, leaving four months of speculations and teasers of how he would begin his reign of the famed fashion house. With the debut of his first show, Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Williams has fully ushered in Louis Vuitton’s new menswear fashion era.
The more-than-400-year-old bridge was lit up and covered in yellow-and-white checkerboard carpeting. As many had hoped, the show was full of musical performances, anchored by a powerful gospel choir performing ‘Joy (Unspeakable)’ in the back of the runway as models walked.
The show and collection was extravagant in its approach and inspirations. Starting with the sun, Williams used the warmth and power from the universal source of life as both a major inspiration for the color palette—which featured the yellow of the sun, as well as earth tones and blue—as well as for texture decorations which glistened on accessories and garments.
Even down to the bridge, which acted as Williams’ path from his childhood in Virginia to where he is now, the collection was rooted in opportunity, diversity, and love. To staple the last point home, Williams created the emblem “LVERS”—a new culture embracing the global community the brand has created.
Damier inspirations and reimaginations were ever present in the collection. A plethora of adaptations of the chessboard graphic in different primary colors was a nod to synaesthesia—a trait which allows Pharrell to see colors when hearing music.
But the greatest adaptation, and perhaps the staple of the collection, was the pixelated “Damoflage” design. Plastered on everything from boots, to accessories, to jackets, to classic Louis Vuitton trunks carried down the runway in a golf cart, the pixelated-camouflage take on the Damier pattern has already made its way to the ends of the internet, and for good reason.
Williams’ focus on the heart of the fashion house continued with the extended line of accessories—in particular, bags. Sandwich bags, LV blazon bumbags, bucket bags, triangle bags, bowling bags, and more meant the majority of the 71 looks featured a bag, or two. Williams’ iconic usage of eyewear throughout his career carried over as models wore pieces including “Damoflage” sunglasses, wire sunglasses, and pearl-lined sunglasses.
Other looks featured rugby polos, tailored suits, mink coats, and intricate details inspired by Paris, Virginia, Canal Street in New York, and even artworks by Henry Taylor exemplified the versatility of the collection.
The show’s audience featured a myriad of celebrities—including Beyonce, Zendaya, Rihanna, Asap Rocky, Kim Kardashian, Lenny Kravitz, and many more—and the show ended with a performance by Jay Z including his collaboration with Williams, “Give It To Me.”