Phoebe Philo Is Back With Her Own Brand
The famed designer is launching an eponymous label under LVMH.
Few departures have left high-fashion fans as heartbroken as when Phoebe Philo stepped down from Celine in 2017. Since then, admirers have been reminiscing her creations in virtual collections such as the popular @oldceline on Instagram, all in preparation for the day she would make her triumphant return. And it seems like the wait is over: the designer is back with an eponymous label, supported by former employer LVMH.
“Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling,” Philo told The Business of Fashion. “I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me.”
— oldceline (@old_celine) April 28, 2019
Before the official announcement, many speculated Philo would join either Chanel or Alaïa. But she added that her return to LVMH is “a natural progression” of their years-long creative partnership. Though the luxury conglomerate will partially back her new label, it will only have a minority stake, allowing Philo greater creative control.
Philo’s period at Celine was marked by a minimalist reinvention of the Parisian label, whose functionality-driven and female gaze aesthetics went on to influence designers like Stella McCartney and Adrian Appiolaza. In a statement to BoF, LVMH president and CEO Bernard Arnault described her as “one of the most talented designers of our time,” adding that he is “very happy to collaborate with Phoebe in her entrepreneurial adventure and wish her great success.”
In accordance with Philo’s own low-profile nature, the new label is still shrouded in mystery, with more details to come only in January 2022, but the designer will reportedly work from a London-based studio.