In his exploration of color as a powerful communicator, Pierpaolo Piccioli, the Creative Director of Valentino, has often utilized it to redefine perceptions and functions. For Valentino’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, titled ‘Valentino Le Noir’, Piccioli delves into the depths of the color black, not as an absence of color but as a rich spectrum of shades.

In this collection, black serves as a canvas for reimagining Valentino’s iconic elements, such as rosettes, ruffles, and lace. Through a play of light and shadow, black emerges as a symbol of rebellion against romanticism and a celebration of graphic sharpness.

The collection’s focus on texture, structure, and silhouette is heightened by a diverse range of fabrics and techniques. Wool-based fabrics add depth to tailored pieces, while statement fur-stitched garments simulate the volumes of real fur. Velvet and lace further elevate the garments, emphasizing femininity.

Silhouettes draw inspiration from the 1980s, with sharp shoulders and dramatic volumes lending strength and power to feminine forms. Piccioli uses pieces like the power dress and romantic full skirts as a way to blur the lines between day and evening wear.

Craftsmanship and embroideries also play a pivotal role in the collection, with signature Maison motifs like the rose presented in hand-cut petals and three-dimensional tulle blooms. Piccioli also plays around with sequin embroideries to add a high-gloss effect and leans into the ‘naked dressing’ trend with transparent fabrics.