Prada Group has confirmed the appointment of Pieter Mulier as creative director of Versace, entrusting the outgoing Alaïa designer with the revival of one of Italy’s most recognisable fashion houses.

Mulier will officially assume the role on July 1, with his first runway show for Versace expected as early as September. The move signals the beginning of what Prada executives have repeatedly described as a long-term transformation project for the brand, following its €1.25 billion acquisition from Capri Holdings last year.

In a joint statement, Prada Group and Versace described the appointment as “the beginning of a new chapter for the brand.” According to Prada management, Mulier had already been identified as the preferred candidate months before the Versace deal was finalized.

“When we considered the Versace acquisition, we identified Pieter Mulier as the right person for the brand,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group scion and Versace executive chairman. “We believe he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential while engaging in a meaningful dialogue with the brand’s powerful legacy.”

The Belgian designer steps into the role following a brief and unexpected chapter at Versace under former designer Dario Vitale, who was removed after just one season despite a well-received Milan Fashion Week debut last September. 

Versace’s cultural resonance has long outpaced its financial performance. During its seven-year tenure under Capri Holdings, revenue remained largely flat and the brand reported an operating loss in its most recent fiscal year. Analysts have suggested that restoring Versace’s positioning at the top of the luxury market, including reducing discounting, limiting outlet exposure and sharpening brand perception, will be essential to its turnaround.

Prada chief executive Andrea Guerra has cautioned that rebuilding Versace will be “a long journey,” a sentiment echoed by Bertelli, who has consistently emphasized patience over quick fixes.

Over the past five years at Alaïa, Mulier became the first designer to follow founder Azzedine Alaïa, a daunting inheritance he navigated with notable success. Educated as an architect at the Institut Saint-Luc in Brussels, Mulier developed a strong accessories business, with products such as the elongated Teckel bag and mesh ballet flats becoming sought-after hits.

His long professional partnership with Prada co-creative director Raf Simons is likely to play an important role. Mulier’s career began as an intern at Simons’ eponymous label in the early 2000s, eventually rising to senior head designer. The pair later collaborated at Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein, where Mulier was instrumental in executing Simons’ vision across global brands. 

Prada Group has committed €250 million in additional investment to support Versace’s relaunch, signalling that the group sees the house as a strategic pillar of its future portfolio. With Mulier at the helm, the focus now shifts from acquisition to execution.