Prada’s Spring 2020 womenswear show presented more as an art-deco bathhouse than a runway. For the show, which streamed at 4 PM CEST on September 18th, architecture and design firm AMO installed geometric ceramic tiles through the hall of the Fondazione Prada Deposito in Milan. Coupled with interlocking seating, the result was a glimmering and vibrant backdrop for the iconic Italian house’s newest collection. Models strutted through large gold pillars in 1920s-inspired drop-waists and bonnets, although the house characterizes the collection as a timeless testament to style.

“The attributes of past decades are incidental—they cite stylistic ‘tropes’ rather than fashions, silhouettes and shapes which defined particular epochs, such as the 1920s, 1970 and 1990s, speaking of a wider culture,” Prada shared in a statement. “Avoiding retrospection, here those sartorial signifiers are mixed together, in a constant state of flux. Eschewing easy classification, they become simultaneously all and nothing—they contradict, undermine and reinterpret. The women wearing them reactivate these aesthetic quotations, opening them to reappraisal.”

Androgynous double-breasted suits prevailed throughout, from more sober grays to electric teal and orange prints. Tweed, fine mohair, and gold brocade also offered a raw textural punch. For those eager to experience the spectacle themselves, Prada live-streamed the show on Twitter and Instagram.

Check out the best looks in our slideshow: