Prada Spring/Summer 2023: A Masterclass in Modern, Skinny Tailoring

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reinvigorated classic, storied menswear staples this season

When Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons joined forces as Prada’s co-creative directors less than two years ago, the fashion industry took the news with a strand of apprehension coupled with an exhilaration for the Italian house’s future.

In the time since, the powerhouses have churned out six collections that infuse a tried and true sensibility with must-have, menswear styles of the moment. Now, for the Italian house’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection this afternoon in Milan, Prada and Simons continued that refreshed minimalism, this time, focusing on fabric, motif, and silhouette.

Tapping into the power of construction, the collection toyed with the idea of reimagining archetypal, known garments: suits, overcoats, leather, denim, and more. Classic menswear staples are refreshed, though not completely discarded, either. Starting out the collection were a trio of slimly tailored all black suits, decidedly uniform and angular in shape.

Then, leather and denim came into play, with barely-there, zipper short-shorts and long sleeve button downs shown beside horizontal knits and color-packed checkered pieces. The collection shuns the oversized fad of late, with streamlined, body-hugging silhouettes shining throughout—something Prada and Simons suggest is an invocation of youth.

Casual separates— flowing trenches, graphic t-shirts, slouchy bombers—have become the sartorial language of Prada and Simons, making their tenure a signal of casual freshness for the Italian brand. And this season was no different, either. Accessories-wise, leather hobo bags and structured, geometric totes are mainstays throughout with aviator shades and crisp pointed-toe boots complimenting the minimal ready-to-wear.

Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 was decidedly muted in its approach. Though subtle, refreshed design notions that re-upped wardrobe classics certainly left a sartorial mark: a style that the house’s newly tapped design duo are more than happy to run with. And in a time when maximalism reigns supreme, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada are a breath of fresh air.

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