Four years after his last showing at Paris Fashion Week, Peter Dundas made his return with a striking fall collection. Beneath the opulent chandeliers of the Opéra Garnier, Dundas offered an interesting departure from his typical skimpier designs, potentially a result of the creative director’s hiatus from French runways.

Opening with a dramatic navy coat, the show was in many ways an ode to great tailoring. From pantsuits to peacoats to even a luxurious cape, the night spoke to Dundas’ precise tailoring skills. But more than an ode to quality craftsmanship, the Dundas Fall 2023 collection was a love letter to the designer’s Norwegian roots, especially his family’s nautical ties. 

The collection itself is a voyage into his culture with familial touches at every turn. Sailor pants make an appearance, while nautical navy tones dominate the palette. Even this season’s knitwear gets a touch from the designer’s family – taking inspiration directly from his grandmother’s handmade fair isle jumpers. However, in classic Dundas fashion, these jumpers were turned up a notch, paired with minuscule, handknit underwear. 

Despite offering a newer take on the Dundas aesthetic – one that is more elegant, and more centered in its tailoring – the designer could never drift too far from home. 

Models still paraded in flimsy, sheer slip dresses and necklines still dipped far below. Sequin tunics silhouetted the body, a firm nod to provocativeness. There were backless moments, yes, and G-strings were hidden in plain sight. And yet, it was ever sensual, never too in-your-face.