RICCARDO TISCI CELEBRATES BRITAIN FOR BURBERRY FALL 2019

RICCARDO TISCI CELEBRATES BRITAIN FOR BURBERRY FALL 2019

The Italian born Designer creates a modern identity for the iconic heritage brand.

The Italian born Designer creates a modern identity for the iconic heritage brand.

Text: Paul Madley

For his second Burberry collection Riccardo Tisci celebrated all things British, the designer presented a show that featured 106 looks that paid homage to everything that Tisci loves about British culture. Titled “Tempest”, the collection was “inspired by the contrasts in British culture and weather, from the structured to the rebellious”.

Held at Tate Modern the set was divided into two sections with a contrast of luxury and grit, guest were given a gold or silver ticket. Gold ticket holders sat in luxe wooden paneled seats furnished with cream cushion, while silver ticket holders sat in a more industrial space with youths in hoodies and sweats climbing the surrounding scaffolding.

The show started with a section that was dedicated to streetwear and modern daywear (perhaps inspired by Tisci’s time as a fashion student at Central Saint Martins in the 90’s). There was a strong reference to 90’s youth cultures, rave, grunge, buffalo, grime, and hip hop. Tisci was channeling British street style and showcased, sweatsuits, sneakers, and sport-jeresy’esque dresses. 90s street looks were followed by a formal section, Tisci showed the classic Burberry trench coat and, evening dresses in a wide spectrum of styles, from demure to party girl. The clothes were soft and feminine but were mixed with a tough attitude, strength and confidence. 

The collection played on the high/low aspects of design and explored tailoring, some pieces were soft and relaxed while other pieces were sharp and defined. Tisci also played with texture showing, puffa jackets, fringing, pleats, faux fur and feathers. There were also segments of transparency that was explored through layering. Accent colors of red and gold evoked regal connotations but the biggest success was Tisci’s development of the iconic ‘Burberry beige’. Taking the DNA of the Fashion House Tisci elevated the colour, presenting it in shades of camel, caramel, fawn, taupe and nudes, making tones of beige an exciting colour for formal and evening wear. 

Model Gigi Hadid walked the runway as did O.G veterans Natalia Vodianova, Stella Tennant and long time friend and muse Mariacarla Boscono. The soundtrack was created by M.I.A who curated a mashed-up soundscape of raps, beats and voice overs, “She says the same things as me, that we need to help young people to have their voice”.

Tisci’s goal for Burberry is “including, not excluding. At Burberry you can buy very expensive luxury clothes, but at the same time I make sure there are tracksuits that kids can really buy. I know what it means to not be able to buy clothes from the designer you like,” Tisci “Burberry is a lifestyle. You can find both.”

The collection explored contrast and perspective it was very powerful and freeing! With a modern viewpoint Tisci celebrated the very best of British heritage, taking classic Burberry aesthetics and making them new, Tisci is brining Burberry to a wider audience. 

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