Saint Laurent’s Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his menswear exhibition outside of the Paris Fashion Week schedule, taking us all by surprise with the tone of the collection. Influenced by 1980s power-dressing, as established by Yves Saint Laurent himself, the Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection “builds on elements introduced in prior seasons, while changing their tone and content”, as per the collection notes. Synonymous with the Maison’s codes, the newest collection offers staple tailoring, bringing the office-core aesthetic to the next level.

Returning to the Bourse de Commerce, the collection’s backdrop is carpeted in black and decorated with an arch of dark floral arrangements including calla lilies, anemones, and orchids. Dressed for a day at headquarters, models strutted down the catwalk in robust double-breasted suits, cinched-in neckties, and sleek dress shoes perfectly fit for a walk down Wall Street.

Contrasted couture jackets are unrestrained, made of crepe georgette, and lined with lustrous satin, mirroring silhouettes from the Maison’s latest women’s collection. Although the tailoring is sharp, an intentional slouch creates an illusion of fabric, as seen on a black leather hat that is connected to a structural rubber peacoat in homage to a 1960s archival piece.

The collection is painted by a somber palette consisting of black, white, grey, and dusty hues of pale nudes, greens, and violets. A shift in silhouettes and coloring reflects the sartorial transition of Yves Saint Laurent, who is known for evolving from simplistic to stylish. Accessory offerings include trendy and dapper eyeglasses and sunglasses, for a bit of work to play.

Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear collection is the ultimate embodiment of the business-casual man, ready to take on any challenge the workday might bring forth.