Grandeur hidden behind a facade of simplicity runs rampant in Saint Laurent’s Summer 2024 collection, as Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello continues to blend the classic and the novel with “Each Man Kills The Thing He Loves.”
The venue was the Neue Nationalgalerie in Berlin. Transforming a pavilion of the glass-and-steel modern art museum, built in 1968 by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, into a dissection of conventions, models walked around two massive pillars, with a bright-white cube behind floor to ceiling windows, retaining the embrace-for-its-time feel just as the collection itself is an ode to our present.
The venue mirrored that of the pieces—although there’s no Eiffel Tower in the background that will take your breath away the moment you open your eyes, instead, what may seem like a more simple yet massive room is in actuality a temple of beauty and class, bringing together a nod to the classic while also looking forward to the future.
Vaccarello honed in on using unconventional silhouettes and fabrics shrouded by more traditional bases; you may first see a more classic Saint Laurent tuxedo, but on closer inspection you’ll find a satin tank top. Designs sourced from the last womenswear collection exemplify the house’s versatile approach to their pieces. What can be found in menswear may be reimagined in womenswear, and vice versa.
A chord that strikes through the entire show is lightweight and roomy tops matched with high-waisted flute pants. Cheetah print, polka dots, or mousseline lose their connotations, with shoulders always exposed unless accentuated by tailored jackets.