The quintessential Saint Laurent woman is complex, independent, and indulgent. She uses her modern agency to revel in the dangerous and pleasurable. Anthony Vaccarello, the brand’s creative director since 2016, brings this character to the forefront of his latest collection. By borrowing iconography from Yves Saint Laurent’s most revered muses, the label conjures its founder’s original vision of the feminine ideal.

Set in Rue de Bellechasse, the same historic courtyard where Vaccarello staged his debut show, the backdrop of the show includes a golden oval oculus revealing the night sky, with a distinct cobalt-blue floor slicked in rain — the color is a nod to Yves’ famous gardens in Marrakech.

The show begins on masculine, broad shoulders with sharp angles. Distinct, oversized eyeglasses reappear on various models — these pay homage to the iconic style of the label’s original founder, as do the layering of fluid suits and jackets over blazers. Supermodel and V girl Bella Hadid made a surprise appearance on the Saint Laurent runway after a two-year hiatus, draped in an oversized black suit with sharp lapels and sporting the aforementioned eyeglasses.

Other accessories in the show are also determined to make a statement, all bold and gold: think chunky earrings and heavy bangles — the luxurious finish of these pieces evoke assertive femininity and power.

In the second half of the show, Vaccarello pivots to high, feathery collars, strong-shouldered brocade jackets, and vibrant tiered skirts layered over lace. The jewel-toned colors that populate these fabrics echo the vibrant garments seen in the works of painters that Yves Saint Laurent cherished.

Boho-chic foreshadows its comeback in damask tunic dresses and ropes of beaded necklaces— surely tributes to fashion icons Loulou de la Falaise and Nan Kempner, who both had close friendships with the label’s founder. Peasant tops that flaunt the bare chest also channel the collection’s subtle bohemian influences, with a plunging neckline that seems to mimic the shape of a masculine tie, but given a sensual femme fatale twist.

Serving as a love letter to the women who have contributed to Saint Laurent’s storied history, Vaccarello’s latest collection weaves the past and present together. The show reimagines Saint Laurent’s celebrated icons and styles through a contemporary lens, and cements the brand’s place at the forefront of modern fashion.

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