Saint Laurent is all about evolving the house’s identity with a new lens, and this season makes no difference. The house’s Creative Director, Anthony Vaccarello, takes transparency to a new level with his latest womenswear collection. Sophisticated sheer silhouettes that cling to the skin, remain modest with long hemlines and sleeves but expose the beautiful body underneath for a risque edge.
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The legendary ‘naked’ gown worn by Marilyn Monroe (and brought back to the spotlight by Kim Kardashian decades later) is referenced as a source of inspiration for this sheer shift. Monroe was able to make a floor-length gown so provocative by showing off her famous figure and matching the skin tone that made onlookers do a double take. The same formula is applied here with classic ‘50s silhouettes like pussybow blouses, halter dresses, and pencil skirts are given a translucent edge that appeals to our 2024 tastes.
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The collection was not one note as a series of coats sprinkled throughout the show showed off masterful techniques and tailoring. Fur and feather coats stun on the runway while a black vinyl coat provides a contrast to the light collection. The outerwear pieces provided a uniquely stylish way to cover up the extremely revealing clothing.
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The color palette consisted of neutrals with muted reds, purples, and greens popping up. Classic thin belts adorned most of the looks and provided a polished detail. All models wore stylish matching headcaps to showcase their faces, the garments, and the large earrings for those wearing them. Consistent elements tied the show together making it a truly singular vision, and showcased Vaccarello’s seemingly x-ray powers.
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