McQueen, under the new creative direction of Sean McGirr, showed their Autumn/Winter 2024 collection with a focus on animalistic opulence.

McGirr incorporates subtle nods to nature to reveal the animal within; A jacket with a bird tailback, a single-sleeve draped dress in red and black silk viscose leopard jacquard, a corset dress in honey calf hair, a top in dark brown brushed mohair and hoof boots in black leather with ponytails in black silk thread, brown leather and black and natural calf hair. More direct pops of vibrant leopard print and fur detailing make the show’s natural motif hard to miss.

Underlying the more obvious, lies a knitted sanctuary as the garments are embedded and enveloped in knit detailing. The use of knit in many of the garments also conveys McGirr’s wild side through a smart, and often concealed, use of compressed cable and honeycomb knit and ecru wool rib knit, amongst others. The collection shows the rough and animalistic side of luxury, utilizing material, print, and silhouette to release the wild beast that lives inside us all. 

The collection repeatedly uses a compressed and elongated silhouette. Draped dresses and cone-like tops created exaggerated forms, compressing the garment into a lean and long shape. This shape is maintained throughout the show as cinched waists on long coats and straight-cut jackets make their way down the juxtaposing runway set. 

The collection presentation, set at the SEGRO Centre Paris Les Gobelins, an old train station transformed into an urban logistics center, creates a perfect contradiction to the animalistic ideas that the garments present. Grass bales in acid yellow and a parachute backdrop create the perfect industrial forest for the garments to run wild.

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