Self-Love Takes Over at Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall/Winter 2022

The Parisian brand debuted a collection of sensual, everyday separates infused with club-inspired details.

Creative Director Ludovic de Saint Sernin is never one to shy away from making a statement. The designer’s slinky, eyelet detailed ready-to-wear are subtly provoking and have become fast favorites for a slew of fashionable celebrities and artists. This season, the Frenchman took a similarly sensual approach, this time deciding to pinpoint self-love and confidence as an overarching inspiration.

Titled ‘All the Rumors are True,’ the collection broadcasted an introspective side of the designer fans of the brand have yet to see. Yes, there were sheer chainmail dresses and barely-there undergarments. Strewn in between, though, were long, flowing silhouettes that were more in line with traditional ‘daywear’—low-rise trousers, silk button downs, and knit turtleneck dresses.

Like many famed designers before—Donatella Versace, Rick Owens, Marc Jacobs—Saint Sernin’s muse was none other than himself. Seen through the flowing muted outerwear and gender-bending tanks, the designer certainly looked inward this season. Too, influences of the nightclub—a frequent reference for the brand—could be seen throughout the collection in the form of fish-net boleros and mesh overlays.

Slouchy separates were fashionably juxtaposed by understated, monochrome outerwear. Python-embossed leather and vintage velvets proved that the designer’s repertoire is not only suitable for a Parisian club, but also for a stroll down the Champs-Elysées. Croc boots and streamlined sandals—the second chapter of a collaboration with Italian footwear brand Piferi—were mainstays throughout the collection, perfectly accenting the already toned-down pieces.

Rounding out the brand’s showing were a sexed-up pair of all-black evening dresses. Of course, the frocks were infused with Saint Sernin’s signature sex appeal: the first dress boasted a hip-barring slit with side ruching, while the finale—worn by Bella Hadid— featured intelligently placed chiffon paneling.

Though designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin referenced himself and his brand’s expansive design repertoire as an inspiration this season, the creative wants fans of the label to become their own main character. And with ultra-sexual tops and ribbed knits made to perfectly contour the body, that task won’t be too hard to fulfill.

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