Shedding Censorship In Kim Shui’s Autumn Winter 2023 Collection

Through the contemplation of autonomy and freedom of dress, the house’s latest collection works to reveal the ways women’s bodies and voices are veiled.

In Kim Shui’s era of women turned warrior, this season takes her endless unabashed celebration of the female form to the table for an intersectional dialogue on what it means to live and express oneself freely through attire. The dichotomy between public vs. private life and forced layers of concealment in the former eye is explored through motif and materiality. Speaking to current moments of upheaval, Shui’s collection creates a message to future generations to help move toward a world that prioritizes identity and self-definition—a world where all of us can move fluidly between interior and exterior (public facing) spaces without adding layers of self-censorship.























Through varying elements, Shui’s collection utilizes materials and forms as visual metaphors, exploring the tension between public and private spaces. Using the motif of concealment as a starting point, Shui integrates netting and crosshatching to cover and expose the body in shapes reminiscent of a chain-link fence. Vegan snakeskin and vegan fur allude to the physically protective layers found in nature. In contrast, clear snakeskin trench coats conjure not only sexuality but also a reclaiming of power and shedding of the skin. Sheer laces, meshes and brocades, and corset boning remind us of traditional interiors and what we wear underneath. At the same time, extra-wide belts are decorated with initials that evoke crests at gates for entry—or blocked entry.

Discover More