While preserving the continuity that has long defined Giorgio Armani, subtle shifts are beginning to emerge at the label. In a first for the house, the menswear show that closed Milan Fashion Week, designed by Leo Dell’Orco, was accompanied by a resort collection from women’s creative director Silvana Armani. Building on the direction she introduced with her women’s ready-to-wear debut last season, the offering brought her sensibility into sharper focus while remaining in harmonious dialogue with Dell’Orco’s relaxed, Mediterranean-inflected menswear.

Silvana’s collection stays close to the codes she inherited. Slightly elongated boyfriend jackets and soft-shouldered cardigans anchor the daywear, some in glen checks flecked with sparkle, others knit with a corrugated texture. Blousons and boxy jacket shapes feel fresh paired with trousers that are uniformly full and fluid until evening, when they narrow into pegged shapes in lamé-like fabrics and separates catch the light.

A greige and natural tone palette anchors everything as gowns and evening wear venture into lilac and powder blue. The 80s also hold an underlying inspiration, with batwing sleeves and inverted triangle proportions on tops and dresses, and a disco pulse running through the lamé evening wear. Clearly attuned to her late uncle’s vision, Silvana is nonetheless intent on leaving her own mark, introducing a more feminine touch and a languid sensuality while maintaining the quiet elegance that has long defined Giorgio Armani.