Simone Rocha A/W 23: Going Back to Irish Traditions and Rituals
In this collection, Simone Rocha builds from the Irish harvest festival, Lughnasadh, and the relationship between men and women through fashion.
Simone Rocha goes back to her deep Irish roots to celebrate the harvest through fashion. Both menswear and womenswear are presented in this collection though neither showcases a difference gender-wise. The collection meshes with the Simone Rocha style as the men’s and womenswear are equivalent in form and design. Though Lughnasadh is celebrated in August, the show is created through Rocha’s ideas of rituals while including elements of Gregorian symbolism.
Lughnasadh is an official Irish Gaelic Pagan holiday that celebrates the beginning of the harvest season at the end of the summer solstice and marks the start of fall. The ancient Celtic festival used to be celebrated all over Ireland, but in modern times Lughnasadh is not as widely observed. There are still some who celebrate rituals through symbols and feasts.
The overall collection is incredibly ornate as it starts with gold and black lurex pieces as coats and dresses with Rocha’s signature puffed sleeves. In past collections fullness in skirts and dresses is common as edgy folk dresses are Rocha’s forte. However, this time around there is a variety of leather pieces in conjunction with the collection being so ceremonial. The highly mentionable design choice of hay bales stuffed inside the womenswear lace gown pieces tells the juxtaposition of the glamour and girliness of the dresses and the rural agricultural lifestyle that is most likely relatable to farming in the copious landscape in Ireland. The full hay bale overlay on the gentle pink slip dress with peeking bow appliques is an art piece in itself but gives into deep rural symbolism and the relationship between bodies and natural objects.
A main motif seen in menswear is the sailor collars in feminine variations but mostly created in Rocha’s style with oval-shaped pearls; the collars whether ruffled, beaded, embellished, or woven, the accessory represents a preppy and polished Victorian Sunday attire as the decorated modern take could launch as a thriving spring adornment.
Another key motif is the ribbons seen throughout the collection on the hair, clothing, and hanging on the model’s hands, but more particularly the red ribbons placed under the eyes of some models; the soft and doll-like detail is a meaningful ritual relating to Lughnasadh as the ribbons embody “The blood daubed on children’s foreheads for protection from otherworldly beings and bad luck” as stated in the press release. Many references and cultural significance are placed in this A/W collection as the show allows a deep look into Rocha’s culture but through the eyes of the designer.