After a successful couture collection debut in partnership with the iconic Jean Paul Gaultier, Simone Rocha’s status as a cult designer remains evident with her Fall 2024 collection. Setting the show at St. Bartholomew’s Church, Rocha bred a theme of death and grief inspired by her time exploring the late Queen Victoria’s archival mourning dress.

Comprised of 50 looks, a highlighted aspect of the show stood in the form of preservation- through both the garments and our sentiments. While a substantial amount of garments were painted in black in synchrony with the show’s title, a signature confectionery palette splashed its way onto a handful of getups, threading whimsical footnotes into a dark tale.

Textiles exist in tantalizing tulles, posh faux fur detailing, deliciously sheer paneling, and polished nylon. Crystalized embellishments are adorned on breast pockets, seamed into dreamy dresses, encrusted onto knit headwear, and decorating a preppy collar. For a bit of playfulness, capacious gowns mirrored children’s nightdresses ornamented with big bows and accessorized with large stuffed animals.

Hints of navy, red, and gold-coated lustrous dresses, polka-dot neck bows, puffed-sleeve blouses, and buttoned-up knit cardigans are seen, as rose-painted eyebrows, braided bows, statement corsetry, 3D metal flowers, and chic yet modest leather bags detail the lineup.

In footwear, a continued collaboration with Crocs designed with princess-approved pearls and gems adds comfort to ready-to-wear, while fur ballet flats and oxfords provide sensibility.

Although meant to be a wake, the wistful fall 2024 collection confirmed a rebirth. A new, exciting chapter in the everlasting Simone Rocha fairytale is on the rise, one that we can look forward to obsessing over.