Smoldering Sophistication: Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Fall Winter 2023
A collision of temporal references creates a hybrid of space-age mode and classic Italian sophistication. Alongside impeccable tailoring, Dolce & Gabbana transcends time to create fluidity through motion.
As black fabric consumes the body, Dolce & Gabbana steeps the male form in a potent concoction of rigor and eternal sophistication.
This season’s collection demonstrates just how closely the design duo has reflected on what constitutes the essence of their brand. Undoubtedly, this delectable compound calls for equal parts hyper-conscious tailoring and sensuality.
A modern concrete ruin greets us as light and shadows tease each other around the mausoleum of the maximalist. Pulsing lights form a prism around a gunmetal runway as the ionic fashion house adds to this season’s milieu of cold and detached Milanese allure with its menswear fall/winter 2023 collection.
At first glance, one would ask what is so innovative about a monochrome collection saturated in suits and double-breasted coats. Upon closer inspection, its razor-sharp tailoring and fastidious cuts breathe life into its garments with phenomenal silhouettes.
Innovation is synonymous with the iconic powerhouse’s vision of tailoring. Long gone are the sclerotic suits of the past, as the brand welcomes fluid and adaptive tailoring that gracefully interacts with the body’s contours. It is clear Dolce & Gabbana is extremely intentional about every stitch that culminates its garments as nuanced cuts and exaggerative lines pronounce a brilliant manipulation of proportions and dimensions. As models tread the runway, their motions engage in a dance of fluidity with their garments.
Voluminous shoulders instill the collection with masculinity and assertiveness. Contrasting with the brand’s revival of super structured corsetry from its fall/winter 1999 collection, one over-arching theme takes center stage as we are reminded underneath color, and the gallantry of decorative design structure reigns supreme.
By the same vein, the iconic brand resuscitates micro-shirts and double-waist trousers. Reminiscing on its past, it employs its archives as a challenge to reinvent and recontextualize through different temporal lenses.
A collision of temporal references creates a hybrid of space-age mode and classic Italian sophistication. Alongside impeccable tailoring, Dolce & Gabbana transcends time to create fluidity through motion. Silver Italian silk layered with a sculpting corset and a glimmering mesh set encapsulates the collection’s toying with the future and past.
Black leather opera gloves and a floor-length cape trail the runway with the Sicilian drama characteristic of Dolce & Gabbana. Noteworthy mentions include slanted hats, pleated wide-fitting trousers, and Italian silks reminiscent of the moody drama of Film Noir as the collection channels mystery and seduction through craftsmanship.
Black is back more than ever as the inventive design duo resets the global fashion uniform to its prior glory. Color is no longer necessary as we trace back to the roots of what constitutes clever design. Synthesizing touch with sight, black radiates in this collection in an ever-morphing dialogue between light and shadows.
Large cross pendants and rosaries played tributes to the brand’s Sicilian iconography. Its footwear also took a refreshing spin on beloved classics with a wide variety of knee-high leather boots trotting down the runway sporting anything from lace-ups to large buckles.
Further playing on tactile appeal through the absence of color, this collection features several statement pieces, such as a gray fur hooded set, a black cropped knitted top with matching arm warmers reminiscent of The Matrix, and a black fur-lined vest in gray and charcoal. Tantalizing the eye with texture, Dolce & Gabbana reminds us that a statement must not always be written in all caps.
The brand taps into a lineage of Italian charm with black and a whole spectrum of grayscale smoldering sensuality. Embroidered crystals glean, emulating the volcanic rock of Etna and Stromboli, entrancing its spectators in a trance of sartorial delight.
What is striking about Dolce & Gabbana is its ability to traverse between maximalism and minimalism with equal panache in its menswear. Following last year’s decadent and hyper-embellished SS 22 and FW 22 collections, the Italian duo inverted the scheme and stripped its SS 23 and FW 23 collections to the brand’s core.
It’s no secret Dolce & Gabbana doesn’t play by the rules. Each show keeps fashion savants guessing as it could span anywhere from a maximal neon serve to a display of subliminal splendor.
While it may seem the fashion industry has come together in mutual appreciation for double-waist trousers and the minimalist man, the fashion magnum has imbued an idiosyncratic charm to this edition of Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week.