For her second collection at the house, Creative Director Meryll Rogge is deconstructing Marni and building it back together to determine what is still worth preserving.

The Italian fashion house was founded in Milan in 1944 by Consuelo Castiglioni and became recognizable through its unusual combination of eccentricism and sophistication, embodying a kind of understated glamour that has long countered more obvious expressions of sex appeal in the fashion world.

Marni has always made room for individuality without taking itself too seriously. The clothes can be sensual and idiosyncratic in equal measure, with little interest in the conventional codes of cool. Rogge brings these distinct elements to life in the Spring/Summer 2027 Ready-to-Wear collection, which debuted on September 24 during Milan Fashion Week. Now that the Creative Director has settled in following her debut with Marni in February 2026, she is less concerned with revamping the brand for youth culture and is instead exploring all the creative risks she can pursue within the already established, delectably unique world that founder Castiglioni built all those decades ago.

In the SS27 line, she investigates what makes Marni Marni.

This season’s collection is full of tensions: utilitarian workwear dressed in decorative patterns, structured silhouettes paired with an unexpected pop of color, modest dresses with external brassieres built into them, ’90s minimalism and ’60s mod… Everything is slightly off-kilter; nothing is overtly predictable.

There is something refreshing about a brand that doesn’t stereotype itself or the wearer, and perhaps Marni’s appetite for experimentation and refusal to be defined is exactly what defines it. As Rogge continues her role as the house’s creative director, she seems to understand that Marni’s longevity does not rely on starting anew, but rather on its enduring—and intrinsic—contradictions.